A stranger in the streets of Tokyo cannot but be struck by the number
of Japanese, especially men and boys, who are dressed in European
clothes. The western costume, if less picturesque, is certainly more
handy than the Japanese; it allows a greater freedom to the limbs,
whereas in the latter the long sleeves are apt to be caught by knobs
and corners and the skirt is always in the way when we wish to run or
walk fast. For this reason the European male dress is largely worn in
schools, government offices, and private places of business, which
are built in a style more or less foreign and furnished with chairs,
benches, and tables; for squatting is uncomfortable with foreign
clothes and, whatever the dress may be, is a more complicated way of
resting ourselves than sitting in a chair, besides requiring a greater
effort when we wish to rise. But there are further reasons for
the favour which European clothes enjoy in Japan. They last much
longer than Japanese, for silks wear out pretty quickly if they are
constantly in use and are, moreover, torn more readily. If they are
soiled, they have to be taken to pieces, washed, perhaps redyed, and
remade. Besides, a Japanese outfit of fair quality is more costly than
a European suit. And as the custom stands in Japan, we have to provide
ourselves with several Japanese suits; whereas so many changes are not
needed of European clothes, in respect of which the Japanese people,
as a whole, have not yet learned to discriminate so rigidly as when
their national costume is concerned. A man may, in fact, wear the same
frock-coat all the year round and make it last long by taking as
great care of it as he does of his Japanese clothes. All things
considered, then, European clothes are both more handy and economical,
and on that account preferred to Japanese on business and ceremonial
occasions.
In the early days of the new regime when European clothes were
comparatively rare and not unfrequently worn rather as a sign of
their wearers’ progressive spirit than for their convenience, it was
considered sufficient if they were simply European, no account being
taken of their cut or style. A man in a tweed cutaway or serge lounge
suit found ready access to an evening party or a semi-official
gathering. But as time went on, the frock-coat became the usual dress
on such occasions; still, silk hats were not yet generally worn, and
bowlers remained the common wear. The evening dress was the official
suit and was worn at one time even in the morning, if there was an
official ceremony at such early hours. It is only within the last
decade that silk hats have come into vogue; and they are now worn with
the frock-coat or evening dress at all parties and social gatherings.
But as they are still only worn at social functions, they last a long
time, and at garden parties silk hats of all ages and styles may be
seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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