The _obi_ for ceremonial occasions is tied in the same way, only that as it is of the same material on both sides, there is no distinction of face and lining. When it is tied, a narrow sash with a piece of board or stiff cardboard in the middle is put under the vertical fold and raised above the level of the _obi_, and the ends of the sash are tied in front and the knot is tucked under the _obi_. This sash is a kind of bustle to keep the fold from falling. Next, the fold is refolded inward, while the doubled end, instead of hanging out as in the ordinary _obi_, is bent back and pushed under the fold. A silk cord is then passed between the two faces of the fold along the middle of the _obi_ and tightly fastened in front over the _obi_ by means of a hook or buckle. This cord is intended to prevent the doubled end and the fold, after the refold, from falling off. The hook or buckle is usually in the form of a flower or some other simple design in gold. Thus, it will be seen that in wearing the ceremonial _obi_, a woman is tied twice each over and under it. [Illustration: THE DRESS-_OBI_. FOR GIRLS. FOR WOMEN.] As the _obi_ is the most conspicuous part of a woman’s dress, the _haori_, which would conceal it except in front, is not worn on formal occasions. It is only worn at home or on an informal visit; and in the absence of a _haori_ to display her crest on, the woman has it dyed on her _kimono_, the number being three or five as on the man’s _haori_. The formal dress is a suit of three _kimono_, of which the second and lowest have white neck-bands. The skirt is wadded much thicker than usual. Sometimes when it is too warm to wear three _kimono_, the middle one is dispensed with and an extra band is put on the lower _kimono_ and a false skirt sewn on to it to make it look as if there were an intermediate _kimono_. The formal colour of the uppermost _kimono_ is black, with five white crests; but except on special occasions less sombre colours may be worn, of which the favourite are blue, grey, and violet, all light-tinted. Underneath the _kimono_ is the long chemise which is the only article of clothing that is allowed to be bright-coloured. It is often expensive; and just as men line their _haori_ with costly stuff which may or may not be seen in company, so women expend as much money upon their chemises, the skirt of which may be partly exposed to view as they walk. It is commonly of figured crêpe, _habutaye_, or crêpe de Chine. Under the chemise is the ordinary cotton underwear.