There is then very little difference in the dress of a Japanese woman
indoors and out, except in the case of the formal dress. Even there
the form is the same. This uniformity of cut strikes one everywhere
in Japan; the dresses are all cast in the same mould. There may be
variations in the length of the sleeves or in the colour and texture
of the apparel; but even fickle fashion leaves the shape of the dress
unchanged; it only varies the stuff and the pattern.
Children’s clothes differ slightly from their elders’. Up to about ten
they often wear at home the tight-sleeved _kimono_. Boys, indeed, may
continue to put them on far into the teens; but girls are soon dressed
in _kimono_ of fancifully-figured crêpe or _mousseline de laine_, the
gayest of which are specially made for their wear. Their outdoor
_kimono_ have sleeves almost touching the ground, and their formal
dress is black with light patterns on the lower part of the sleeves
and round the skirt. Their _obi_ is folded almost perpendicularly
behind, the folded end coming close up to the shoulders; and over it
is tied a plain sash, usually of yellow or red crêpe, the knot being
tied at the side with the ends hanging down.
[Illustration: A YOUNG LADY DRESSED FOR A VISIT.]
The girl, on reaching her sixteenth or seventeenth year, ceases to
be a child and becomes a _shinzo_, or maiden; she no longer puts
on gaily-coloured _kimono_, though she still retains the hip-wrap,
underwear sleeves, and band of crimson. At twenty-four, at which she
becomes a _toshima_, when she is supposed to be married, the colour of
her dress becomes more sober; the hip-wrap is white, the sleeves of
her underwear, though sometimes still red for a little while longer,
are oftener of a less conspicuous tint, and the band of blue, purple,
black, or other dark hues. For the first few years she may, in her
desire to conceal her age, affect the _shinzo’s_ costume; but when
she reaches thirty, she is an unmistakable _toshima_. This stage
terminates at forty, when she comes to be spoken of as approaching old
age. She is dressed soberly as if to avoid notice. Forty is pretty
early for a woman to be classified as old; but in former days old age
began at fifty when a man was considered unfit for business and made
over his name and property to his heir. We mature early and decline at
the same rate. Indeed, man, says a Japanese proverb, lives but for
fifty years and rarely does his span extend to seventy years. Our
expectation of life is, then, two decades less than the Psalmist’s.
Impressed by its brevity, the Japanese woman knows that she ceases to
please after two score and unmurmuringly gives up hope. She does not
allow herself to be deceived when silver locks begin to appear among
the raven; and by her dress and coiffure she frankly confesses the
stage she has reached in the journey of life.
CHAPTER IX.
TOILET.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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