This particular style has long been a prime favorite in certain markets of
Europe, and to a small extent in this country also. Westphalia is a
province of Germany in which there is a large industry in breeding swine
for the express purpose of making the most tender meat with the least
proportion of fat. Another reason for the peculiar and excellent qualities
which have made Westphalian hams so famous, is the manner of feeding and
growing for the hams, and finally the preserving, curing, and last of all,
smoking the hams. The Ravensberg cross breed of swine is a favorite for
this purpose. They are rather large animals, having slender bodies, flat
groins, straight snouts and large heads, with big, overhanging ears. The
skin is white, with straight little bristles.
A principal part of the swine food in Westphalia is potatoes; these are
cooked and then mashed in the potato water. The pulp thus obtained is
thoroughly mixed with wheat bran in a dry, raw state; little corn is used.
In order to avoid overproduction of fat and at the same time further the
growth of flesh of young pigs, some raw cut green feed, such as cabbage,
is used; young pigs are also fed sour milk freely. In pickling the hams
they are first vigorously rubbed with saltpeter and then with salt. The
hams are pressed in the pickling vat and entirely covered with cold brine,
remaining in salt three to five weeks. After this they are taken out of
the pickle and hung in a shady but dry and airy place to "air-dry." Before
the pickled hams can be put in smoke they are exposed for several weeks to
this drying in the open air. As long as the outside of the ham is not
absolutely dry, appearing moist or sticky, it is kept away from smoke.
Smoking is done in special large chambers, the hams being hung from the
ceiling. In addition to the use of sawdust and wood shavings in making
smoke, branches of juniper are often used, and occasionally beech and
alder woods; oak and resinous woods are positively avoided. The smoking is
carried on slowly. It is recommended to smoke for a few days cautiously,
that is, to have the smoke not too strong. Then expose the hams for a few
days in the fresh air, repeating in this way until they are brown enough.
The hams are actually in smoke two or three weeks, thus the whole process
of smoking requires about six weeks. Hams are preserved after their
smoking in a room which is shady, not accessible to the light, but at the
same time dry, cool and airy.
THE PIG AND THE ORCHARD.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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