The Chinese one sees on the street range from jockey-sized runts to
towering giants; from tiny women weighing perhaps 90 pounds to queenly
six-footers; from the palest of white skins to a deep walnut brown. Many
have features which seem more Slavic or Polish than anything classifiable
as Chinese. There are almond eyes and pop eyes; slit eyes and bug-eyes.
Noses tend to be a little less prominent and less sharply defined than
European noses, but exceptions occur. The bloated red nose of the
dedicated drinker never shows itself, except on a Caucasian face. Dark
hair is almost universal and bald heads less common than in an American
crowd. Pudgy types occur with some regularity, but tremendously fat
people are rarely seen.
About half the people who live in the urban areas were born in the
colony and most of their ancestors came from Kwangtung, the Chinese
Province immediately north of the Hong Kong border. Kwangtung was also
the birthplace of the majority of the recent refugees from Red China.
Eight-tenths of the city-dwellers speak the dialect of Cantonese used
in Canton City, where the British traders were based before Hong Kong
became a colony. This dialect and others closely related to it are
the _lingua franca_ of the colony’s urban Chinese, but there are 96
Cantonese dialects in existence, many of them unintelligible to users
of the Canton City dialect. The babble of urban tongues includes Hoklo,
Sze Yap and Hakka, all from different parts of Kwangtung, Shanghainese
(chiefly heard at North Point and Hung Hom in the colony), Chiuchow (in
the Western District), Fukienese (at North Point) and Kuoyu, or Mandarin
(near Hong Kong University and at Rennie’s Mill Camp).
In the New Territories, where even a Westerner can detect differences of
dress and custom, the Cantonese hold most of the flat, fertile farmland
and speak a dialect which puzzles city Cantonese. Ancestors of the
Cantonese farmers have lived in the New Territories for nine centuries.
The Hakka people, whose women may be identified immediately by their
broad-brimmed straw hats with a hanging fringe of thin black cloth,
settled the same area at about the time of the earliest Cantonese, but
were pushed into the less desirable farmland and generally dominated by
the Cantonese. They fought each other intermittently for centuries, but
the feud has died down and they now share several villages peacefully,
frequently intermarry, and restrict their warfare to husband-wife
squabbles. The Hakkas of the eastern New Territories operate their own
single-masted, high-hull boats for hauling farm produce and ferrying
passengers.
The Hoklos, a smaller group with a knack for handling light, fast boats,
once lived entirely on boats and worked as shrimp fishermen. They moved
ashore many years ago and now have their chief settlements on Cheung Chau
and Peng Chau, a few miles west of Hong Kong Island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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