By the testimony of historians, the Tanka people, who dominate the
colony’s fishing industry, are the oldest surviving group in Hong Kong.
Antedating the Chinese, they lived in the area when the Cantonese came
along to push them off the land and generally treat them like despised
inferiors. They lived entirely on boats, and when the British traders
arrived, the Tanka had no compunctions about dealing with them in
defiance of the Chinese Emperor’s orders. Over 90 percent of them speak
Cantonese, with a small number speaking Hoklo and other dialects. Hardy
and conservative, they avoid city ways, live on their junks and sampans
and follow their own distinctive festivals and religious ceremonies.
Since World War II they have begun to send their children to schools
ashore and to become more directly involved in the economic life of the
colony.
World War II provided a turning point in the fortunes of those boat
people who operated cargo lighters in the harbor. Heartily disliking the
Japanese, they used false-bottomed boats to secrete food stolen from
their cargoes and then distributed it among the half-starved population
ashore. They were the only residents permitted to eat in the large hotel
restaurants like those at the luxurious Peninsula in Kowloon. Most of
them, wholly unfamiliar with chairs, ate by squatting on the chair-seats
as they had squatted on deck while eating at sea. Nowadays, they are more
sophisticated, and in spite of their non-Chinese origin, as intensely
Chinese as any group in the colony.
Because of the floodtide of tourists which has swept into Hong Kong in
the last few years, it has become a conversational bromide to say that
the influx will soon destroy its colorful Chinese community. To accept
such a doctrine is to overestimate the impact of tourism and underrate
the resistance of the Chinese.
The Hong Kong tourist is a highly localized phenomenon. Except for a fast
motor tour through the main roads of the New Territories and a short
whirl around Hong Kong Island, he rarely wanders more than a mile from
the island and Kowloon terminals of the Star Ferry. He shops, gawks, eats
at a few restaurants which are more tourist-oriented than Oriental, and
is gone, leaving nothing but the click of the shopkeepers’ abacuses to
mark his passage.
It may seem incongruous to characterize nearly one-fourth of the human
race as clannish, but it is undeniable that the Chinese, no matter where
they have lived, have retained their home ties, customs and culture. They
are rock-ribbed individualists rather than nationalists, but when they
live abroad, whether in Hong Kong or the Chinatowns of San Francisco and
New York, they remain distinctly and unalterably Chinese. In Singapore
and Manila they are resented for their commercial shrewdness and their
stubborn insistence on remaining Chinese. If their next-door neighbors
can’t change them, what reason is there to believe that the tourists of
Hong Kong can do so?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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