ROW us out from Desenzano, to your Sirmione row! So they row'd, and there we landed--"O venusta Sirmio!" There to me thro' all the groves of olive in the summer glow, There beneath the Roman ruin where the purple flowers grow, Came that "Ave atque Vale" of the Poet's hopeless woe, Tenderest of Roman poets nineteen hundred years ago, "Frater Ave atque Vale"--as we wandered to and fro Gazing at the Lydian laughter of the Garda lake below Sweet Catullus's all-but-island, olive silvery Sirmio. ALFRED TENNYSON. [Illustration: VI RANCONEZZO _The Town and the Lake_] THE ITALIAN LAKES HE who loves immense space, cloud shadows sailing over purple slopes, island gardens, distant glimpses of snow-capped mountains, breadth, air, immensity, and flooding sunlight, will choose Maggiore. But scarcely has he cast his vote for this, the Juno of the divine rivals, when he remembers the triple lovelinesses of the Larian Aphrodite, disclosed in all their placid grace from Villa Serbelloni;--the green blue of the waters, clear as glass, opaque through depth; the _millefleurs_ roses clambering into cypresses by Cadenabbia; the laburnums hanging their yellow clusters from the clefts of Sasso Rancio; the oleander arcades of Varenna; the wild white limestone crags of San Martino, which he has climbed to feast his eyes with the perspective, magical, serene, Leonardesquely perfect, of the distant gates of Adda. Then while this modern Paris is yet doubting, perhaps a thought may cross his mind of sterner solitary Lake Iseo--the Pallas of the three. She offers her own attractions. The sublimity of Monte Adamello, dominating Lovere and all the lowland like Hesiod's hill of Virtue reared aloft above the plain of common life, has charms to tempt heroic lovers. SYMONDS, _Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece._ PIAZZA GARIBALDI THE painter may transfer its campanile, glittering like dragon's scales, to his canvas. The lover of the picturesque will wander through its aisle at mass-time, watching the sunlight play upon those upturned Southern faces with their ardent eyes; and happy is he who sees young men and maidens on Whit Sunday crowding round the chancel rails, to catch the marigolds and gillyflowers scattered from baskets which the priest has blessed. SYMONDS, _Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece._ DOWN IN THE CITY IS it ever hot in the square? There's a fountain to spout and splash! In the shade it sings and springs; in the shine such foam-bows flash On the horses with curling fish-tails, that prance and paddle and pash Round the lady atop in the conch--fifty gazers do not abash, Though all that she wears is some weeds round her waist in a sort of a sash!