Time works many changes; but will it ever bring into our English
markets the various and neatly arranged vegetables, the bouquets of
salad, pleasant to the eye as to the taste, the neat little joints and
divisions of meat, the temptingly prepared poultry and game, and the
many kinds of appetizing comestibles, which are to be found in the
markets of Paris? There a housekeeper may amuse herself by varying her
dinners for every day, having an embarrassment of choice between
countless delicacies. There the fillet of beef (the undercut of the
sirloin) is already larded for the roast; the pigeons are boned and
prepared for the _compôte_; the veal is cut in shape and beaten for the
cutlets; the pigs'-feet are boned, stuffed, and truffled; slices of
galantine are ready to be laid on a dish for luncheon; crayfish woo the
_mayonnaise_; parsley and butter are waiting to be poured over potatoes
_à la maître-d'hôtel_. There the spinach may be bought ready boiled and
finely chopped, only needing to be warmed with its poached eggs; the
sorrel is already picked over and cooked; the carrots are cleanly
grown, and evenly selected, and sold with just the quantity of
feathered green tops useful for a garnish. In fact, all is so contrived
that the least possible refuse matter shall be brought into any house,
so saving the labour that this entails.
Nor does this trimming and spoke-shaving add to the price of the
articles, as the surplus vegetable remains go into the ground at once,
but little of what is uneatable being taken to the market at all; thus
saving the cost of carriage, and paying for the little time expended in
its removal; while in the case of meat, the purchaser finds it more
profitable to cook only such parts as are entirely eatable, without
letting time and fire be consumed in preparing what is always wasted.
This is not a cookery-book, though when I think of how much we have to
learn before we can make good use of our fine provisions, I feel
tempted to branch off on this line; but the lady amateur will learn
more by giving careful attention at the cooking-school than by reading
many books.
In London we can buy peas ready shelled, fowls ready trussed, fish
prepared for the pot or pan, and sometimes our beans ready slit; but
carrots must be scraped, greens washed, and turnips peeled, and apples
also, though potatoes need not; tongues and hams may be bought boiled,
and cakes ready baked. Still, with us much more food has to be prepared
at home than in France, though we have this convenience--that the
provisions are brought by the tradesmen to our doors, which is seldom
the practice there.
For general cooking, the gas tripod like that used at breakfast will
not serve our turn, except on cold-collation days in the heat of
summer, when cold lamb or salmon, salads and fruit, are more grateful
than anything else.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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