When I first stated making my own bread from my own at-home-ground
flour I was puzzled by variations in the dough. Sometimes the bread
rose well and was spongy after baking like I wanted it to be.
Sometimes it kneaded stickily and ended up flat and crumbly like a
cake. Since I had done everything the same way except that I may
have bought my wheat berries from different healthfood stores, I
began to investigate the subject of wheat quality.
The element in the cereal that forms the rubbery sponge in risen
bread so it doesn't crumble and rises high without collapsing, is
gluten. The word glue derives from gluten. The gluten content of
various wheats varies. Bread bakers use "hard wheat" because of its
high gluten content. Gluten is a protein and gluten comprises most
of the protein in bread wheat; the protein content and the gluten
content are almost identical.
Try this. Ask your healthfood store buyer or owner what the protein
content is of the hard red wheat seeds they're selling. You'll
almost certainly get a puzzled look and your answer will almost
certainly be, "we have Organic and conventional." Demand that the
store buyer ask this question of their distributor/wholesaler and
then report back to you. If the distributor deigns to answer, the
answer will be the same--I sell Organic or conventional hard red
wheat. Period. When I got these non-answers I looked further and
discovered that hard bread wheats run from about 12 percent protein
to about 19 percent and this difference has everything to do with
the soil fertility (and to an extent the amount of rainfall during
the season), and almost nothing to do with Organic or conventional.
This difference also has everything to do with how your dough
behaves and how your bread comes out. And how well your bread
nourishes you. Thirteen percent wheat will not make a decent
loaf--fourteen percent is generally considered #2 quality and
comprises the bulk of cheap bread grain. When you hear in the
financial news that a bushel of wheat is selling for a certain
price, they mean #2. Bakers compete for higher protein lots and pay
far higher prices for more protein.
We prefer our bread about 25% rye, but rye contains no gluten at
all. Mix any rye flour into fourteen percent wheat flour and the
dough becomes very heavy, won't rise, and after baking, crumbles. So
I kept looking for better grain and finally discovered a
knowledgeable lady that sold flour mills and who also was a serious
baker herself. She had located a source of quality wheat with an
assayed protein content and sold it by the 50 pound sack. When I
asked her if her wheat was Organic she said it was either sixteen or
seventeen percent protein depending on whether you wanted hard red
spring wheat or hard white spring wheat. Organic or conventional? I
persisted. No, she said. High protein!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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