"In travelling by wagon one gets along slowly," he says. "Twenty miles a day is reckoned moderate, and two and a half miles an hour is the usual rate of progress. Cooking utensils, as a kettle, a gridiron, and a pot, accompany the wagon. Bedding is also a part of the travelling appurtenances, and is either made up at night in the body of the wagon or in the open country, according to the weather." This description sounds pleasant and comfortable enough, but the men and women who in those days set out across unexplored country in search of new homes often had to endure hardships and face terrible dangers, for the Kaffirs and Zulus were fierce and warlike, and they often attacked and murdered the newcomers. As a safeguard against these enemies the colonists used to arrange their wagons at night in a circle, and within the primitive fort, or laager as it was called, they would make their camp and light watch-fires to frighten away lions and other beasts of prey. South African wagons are very large and have canvas hoods. Whole families can travel in them comfortably, and sometimes as many as sixteen oxen are used. North of Cape Colony is Natal, the oldest of the British possessions in South Africa, and now we will leave our quaint, old-world wagon and pay a visit to the port of Durban as it is to-day. [Illustration: DURBAN RICKSHAW.] Here we shall see careering along the streets or waiting to be hired, some very strange little vehicles indeed, and shall hardly recognise them at first as our old friends the rickshaws of Japan and Ceylon. When we look more closely, however, we shall see that the rickshaws themselves are just the same as those which speed along the red roads of Colombo or under the cherry blossoms of Yokohama. It is the men who drag them that are extraordinary, for the Kaffir rickshaw boys of Durban wear the most amazing costumes and deck themselves out in queer finery of all sorts. Beads, scraps of ribbon, feathers, all these are pressed into the service, and very often as a finishing touch of grandeur the boys fasten buffalo horns on to their woolly heads. Leaving Natal behind us, we will go up country beyond the reach of railway lines. There travellers have to make their journeys in Cape carts, which are two-wheeled vehicles drawn by a pair of mules and driven by a Basuto. These natives are among the finest drivers in the whole world, and they will whip up their mules and dash recklessly up hill and down dale, no matter how rough the road may be, or even, as often happens, if there is no road at all. There is no brake to a Cape cart, and the harness is frequently rotten or mended with scraps of string or tape, but nothing seems to matter, and the Basuto will generally manage to bring his passengers and the piles of baggage safely to their destinations.