How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should knowDoughty, Frank W.
History
How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should know
Doughty, Frank W.
Locomotives -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
Begin with the water in the gauge glass and ascertain its level and
find out whether it correctly indicates the height of the water in the
boiler by opening the lower cock in the usual manner.
Satisfied that the boiler is safe, the engineer must assume the
responsibility of looking after it, for should anything prove wrong
afterward, he alone can be called to account.
He should also observe what pressure of steam there is in the boiler,
what is the condition of the fire, how much coal there is in the tender
and its quality, and lastly that the water supply is all right.
If the inspection is made properly all will go well; if in a
half-hearted, slip-shod fashion trouble is sure to follow.
INSPECTION OF AN ENGINE OVER A PIT.
It is a good and a safe rule to examine an engine over a pit before
starting out. When this is done properly and regularly, the habit is
unmistakably the mark of a good engineer.
That an engine may be properly examined over a pit, it is necessary
that it should be placed in such a position that every part of it may
be seen and inspected without having the machinery moved.
The examination, to be complete, should be commenced at one specified
point, and continued all around the engine, until the engineer returns
to the place where he began.
In general, the only tools needed are wrenches.
The inspection should begin at the trailing engine axle, on the
engineer's side, and the best rule is to examine everything, not
forgetting the fact that more engines break down in consequence of
bolts and split pins working out than from any other cause.
After the engineer's side has been properly examined, the under side
of the engine next claims attention. The engineer should begin at the
crank shaft, taking his stand, where it is possible to do so, between
the shaft and the fire box, while he is testing the bolts and rivets
connected with it.
BIG ENDS.
Big Ends require to be fitted brass and brass, to work well, and to be
well-cottered or bolted up, but with sufficient slackness on the crank
bearing to allow of their being easily moved sideways by hand, so that
a little room may be left for the expansion of the journal by heat.
Big End brasses do best, wear longest, and knock least, when tightened
up a little at a time and often, instead of being allowed to run until
they thump alarmingly. With proper attention they seldom run hot.
LITTLE ENDS.
Little Ends need scarcely any supervision excepting what is required
from the oiler, provided they are fitted with steel bushes. Those
fitted with brasses require the same attention as Big Ends.
ECCENTRICS.
When the eccentrics are being examined particular attention should be
paid to the bolts, nuts, safety-cotters and set-pins. The bolts which
hold the two halves of each eccentric strap together should always nip
tightly, as any slackness always affects the engine's speed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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