How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should know — John Shaqi
How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should knowDoughty, Frank W.
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How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should know
Doughty, Frank W.
Locomotives -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
Two end pieces must also be prepared. Let them be 1 inch deep, with the
ends hammered square, at right angles, and then riveted to the bed
plate and side frames, as shown in Fig. 20. Then drill three holes in
them, about an inch and a half from either end, and one in the center,
by which to bolt on the buffer beams by means of a couple of screws put
in at the back. The buffer beams should be mahogany, 1 inch wide by 2
deep by 10 long, squared nicely and sandpapered. A hook can then be
made--Fig. 23--and a hole being drilled in the center of the beam, you
can pass the hook stem through and into the central hole of framework,
and screw up tight with nut at back, which will hold all firmly in
place. The buffers for this model must be properly made, with springs
to take the pressure in case you should run into anything.
Fig. 24 shows this buffer. You will have to get it cast. Turn out in
your lathe a wooden mold and get four castings in brass made from it. A
Fig. 24 is cast with a square base plate 2 inches square, as in front
view B, and is secured to the buffer beam by four flat-headed screws.
The piece C must be turned true and just the size to slide in and out
of A easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should be an
inch and a half long. Drill a hole in the buffer beam to allow the head
of the pin to work freely, and another hole in base plate of buffer the
size of the pin, whose head prevents the spring from forcing C entirely
away from A.
The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers can then be
screwed in as just mentioned. The wheel-guard or line-clearer P (Fig.
20) can next be cut out to shape and bolted on to frame, and should
just clear the line by a quarter of an inch.
We will now proceed to the axle bearings and springs, U, Fig. 20.
Make a wooden model like Fig. 25, and get 6 castings in brass made from
it. They must then be filed up square and smooth and fitted into the
slots cut at A, B, C, Fig 22, and either screwed or riveted on by the
side holes. Before finally fixing them prepare 6 brass bearings, B, Fig
25, which must fit exactly and slide easily in the inner surface of A,
then drilling a hole through each five-eighths of an inch in diameter.
These take the axles, which in this model are all straight, and
three-quarters of an inch in diameter, shouldered off to five-eighths
for the bearings.
Next for the springs. Take 4 pieces of either sheet iron or brass for
the supports, 1-1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch wide. Drill a hole in
either end as shown at C, Fig. 26. A should be three-eighths of an inch
wide, drilled through, a pin put in and all riveted together loosely.
[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
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