How to Visit the English CathedralsSingleton, Esther
History
How to Visit the English Cathedrals
Singleton, Esther
Cathedrals -- England
“The usual alterations took place in Salisbury Cathedral at the
Reformation, when much of the painted glass is said to have been
removed by Bishop Jewell. Although desolate and abandoned, it
escaped material profanation during the Civil War, and workmen were
even employed to keep it in repair. On the Restoration, a report of
the general condition of the cathedral was supplied by Sir
Christopher Wren, and certain additions for the strengthening of
the spire were made at his recommendation. The great work of
destruction was reserved for a later period and more competent
hands. Under Bishop Barrington (1782-1791) the architect Wyatt was,
unhappily, let loose upon Salisbury; and his untiring use of axe
and hammer will stand a very fair comparison with the labours of an
iconoclast emperor, or with the burning zeal of an early Mohammedan
caliph. He swept away screens, chapels and porches; desecrated and
destroyed the tombs of warriors and prelates; obliterated ancient
paintings; flung stained glass by cartloads into the city ditch;
and levelled with the ground the Campanile--of the same date as the
Cathedral itself--which stood on the north side of the churchyard.
His operations at the time were pronounced ‘tasteful, effective and
judicious.’ The best point of view is from the north-east, which
Rickman has pronounced ‘the best general view of a cathedral to be
had in England, displaying the various portions of this interesting
building to the greatest advantage.’ The Cathedral is built (and
roofed) throughout with freestone obtained from the Chilmark
quarries, situated about twelve miles from Salisbury towards
Hendon, and still worked. The stone belongs to the Portland beds of
the oölite. The pillars and pilasters of the interior are of
Purbeck marble. The local rhyme in which the cathedral is
celebrated may here be quoted; it is attributed by Godwin, who
gives a Latin version of it, to a certain Daniel Rogers:
“‘As many days as in one year there be,
So many windows in this church you see.
As many marble pillars here appear
As there are hours through the fleeting year.
As many gates as moons one here does view,
Strange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true.’
The great point to which the attention of the stranger is at once
drawn is, of course, the grand peculiarity of Salisbury, the
‘silent finger’ of its _spire_. This is the loftiest in England,
rising 400 feet above the pavement (Chichester said, but very
doubtfully, to have been built in imitation of it, is 271 feet in
height; Norwich 313 feet) and its summit is 30 feet above the top
of St. Paul’s.”--(R. J. K.)
Dean Stanley said that Westminster is all-glorious within and Salisbury,
all-glorious without.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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