Humanity to Honey-Bees: or, Practical Directions for the Management of Honey-Bees Upon an Improved and Humane Plan, by Which the Lives of Bees May Be Preserved, and Abundance of Honey of a Superior Quality May Be ObtainedNutt, Thomas
Science
Humanity to Honey-Bees: or, Practical Directions for the Management of Honey-Bees Upon an Improved and Humane Plan, by Which the Lives of Bees May Be Preserved, and Abundance of Honey of a Superior Quality May Be Obtained
The best wood for them is by some said to be red cedar; the chief grounds
of preference of which wood are--its effects in keeping moths out of the
boxes, and its being a bad conductor of heat. But of whatever kind of
wood Bee-boxes are made, it should be well seasoned, perfectly sound, and
free from what carpenters term _shakes_. Good, sound, red deal answers
the purpose very well, and is the sort of wood of which most of my boxes
have been made hitherto. The sides of the boxes, particularly the front
sides, should be at the least an inch and a half in thickness; for the
ends, top, and back-part, good deal one inch thick is sufficiently
substantial; the ends, that form the interior divisions and openings,
must be of half-inch stuff, well dressed off, so that, when the boxes and
the dividing-tins are closed, that is, when they are all placed together,
the two adjoining ends should not exceed five-eighths of an inch in
thickness. These communication-ends, the bars of which should be exactly
parallel with each other, form a communication, or a division, as the
case may require, which is very important to the Bees, and by which the
said boxes can be immediately divided without injuring any part of the
combs, or deluging the Bees with the liquid honey, which so frequently
annoys them, by extracting their sweets from the piled or storified boxes.
This is not the only advantage my boxes possess: the receptacles
or frame-work for the ventilators, which appear upon each of the
end-boxes,--the one with the cover off, the other with it on--must be
four inches square, with a perforated, flat tin of nearly the same size,
and in the middle of that tin must be a round hole, to correspond with
the hole through the top of the box, and in the centre of the frame-work
just mentioned, an inch in diameter, to admit the perforated, cylinder,
tin ventilator, nine inches long. This flat tin must have a smooth piece
of wood well-made to fit it closely, and to cover the frame-work just
mentioned, so as to carry the wet off it, then placing this cover over
the square, perforated tin, your box will be secure from the action of
wind and rain. The perforated cylinder serves both for a ventilator, and
also for a secure and convenient receptacle for a thermometer, at any
time when it is necessary to ascertain the temperature of the box into
which the cylinder is inserted. Within this frame-work, and so that the
perforated, flat tin already described may completely cover them, at each
corner make a hole with a three-eighths centre-bit through the top of the
box. These four small holes materially assist the ventilation, and are,
in fact, an essential part of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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