Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
During the last hour of the climb we were enveloped in clouds and as we
gained the summit snow was falling. A sudden change in the direction of
the wind swept the clouds from the top of the mountain and we had ten
minutes of clear sky which afforded time for two good photographs and a
quick view of the surrounding country. Mrs. Russell unfurled the flag
of the Arctic Club of America, the stars and stripes in the upper left
hand corner of an ice-green field. This flag had been presented to me for
this purpose by the late Rear Admiral W. S. Schley, then president of the
Arctic Club. We have every reason to believe that Mrs. Russell was the
first woman to gain this point and I know that it was the first time
that the stars and stripes ever floated from the summit of a volcano in
Iceland.
The reading of the thermometer at the summit was zero, Centigrade; the
reading of the aneroid barometer, carefully compared with the standard
at the station in _Reykjavik_ before starting and corrected by the same
instrument for the same hour when we returned, gave the elevation of
_Hekla_ as 5,050 feet. This is not a high mountain but it has features
peculiar to itself that render its ascent one of toil. Any person with
endurance and thoughtful care can make the ascent and no one who visits
Iceland, if at all interested in the topography of the country or in
volcanic formations, can afford to miss it.
I climbed down to the brink of the crater upon the snow shelf to view the
interior and to photograph the opposite wall. No ascent had been made
for four years and at that time the local guide stated that the crater
was full of snow and ice. This is the ash crater of 1845. The opening is
about 450 by 360 feet. When I looked into its depths on July 20, 1909,
there was no snow in the bottom and vapor was ascending. This vapor was
doubtless snow evaporation. Yet, there has been some heat radiation from
within to clear out this great cavity of ice and snow in four years.
Fifteen minutes walk along the ridge brings the traveller to the red
crater, which is about the same size as the other or northern crater but
unlike it the material is red with considerable sublimated sulfur.
_Hekla_ is by no means dead. Numerous earthquakes have occurred in its
vicinity within the past three years and a large area of the ice mantle
is reported as having slipped off in 1910. It is sixty-nine years since
the great eruption of 1845, which is more than twice the average period
of inactivity but it is nine years less than its longest period of rest.
An eruption may be expected at any time. The old volcano, in spite of
the slander which Burton heaps upon it, is worthy of scientific study
and before its next eruption a series of observations should be taken
similar to those made by Frank Perret on Vesuvius and other Mediterranean
volcanoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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