Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
The view from _Hekla_ is superb. The eye is first arrested by the ridges
of lava, black, red, gray, horrent and ill-boding which extend down the
mountain slopes and bury themselves in the fertile soil of the distant
plains. Each of the two main ridges bisects a well watered section, once
fertile and now choked with sand. To the northwest, _Láng Jökull_ raises
its two score miles of ice-parapet, four hundred miles of unexplored
Iceland; to the northeast is spread out the vast expanse of mighty _Vatna
Jökull_, Mountain-Producing-Waters, an area of ice-covered tableland
one hundred miles by sixty; between these two glaciers and directly
north of us stands _Hofs Jökull_, _Hof_ signifying heathen-temple, it
is nearly circular and appears like the frosted dome of a mammoth cake.
Between the last two _Jökulls_, stretching away into the northeast, is
the _Sprengisandur_, Bursting-Sands, a mighty desert entirely void of
vegetation, a dreary, desolate tract, wind-driven and life-destroying.
Nearer, in the emerald plain flow the glacier-born rivers the _Thjórsá_
and the _Hvitá_ and a cloud of saffron sand floats in the air above the
desert which we crossed yesterday. We cannot see the travellers but
surely there is a train of horses there and the wind is lifting the
fine sand into the sun. Turn now to the southward, look down along the
tumbled chimneys and the red hornitos of _Hekla_ and the first object to
arrest the eye is the beautiful _Tindfjallajökull_, Peaked-Ice-Mountain,
with its two ice-horns resembling the Matterhorn, protruding from an
oval mound of lava and casting their blue shadows on the trackless
snow. Behind this mountain is the _Saga_ country of the South, the
home of the noble _Njal_ and the peerless _Gunnar_. There was the scene
of Iceland’s great Epic, Burnt Njal. Those ribbons of limpid silver
that branch from the base of _Goðalands Jökull_, Land-of-the-Gods, like
reins from the hand of a chariot driver, those are the many branches of
the _Markarfljót_, Boundary-Marking-River, pouring down its floods of
glacial waters and volcanic sands to choke the passage in an effort to
join _Heimaey_ to the mainland. Across the moors, the sheep ranges and
the marshes beyond, the North Atlantic, encircling the black masses of
the Westman Islands, wreathes those weathered pillars with garlands of
snow-white foam.
The descending clouds and the falling snow suddenly shut off the view,
but the camera of the eye has caught it all in a circling panorama and
the prints are stored in memory’s folder to be opened at leisure. The
infinite waste of the lava billows, grandeur rising from desolation, the
flash of the restless rivers, the quiet of the happy plain,—these are but
the halftones in Iceland’s matchless print.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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