Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
An hour’s ride from the farm across the ancient lava bed brings the
traveller to the bridge across the _Skjálfandafljót_, Trembling River,
and to the _Goðafoss_, Falls-of-the-Gods, one of the most beautiful
waterfalls in Iceland. It has not the grandeur of the _Gullfoss_ and
the _Dettifoss_ but its symmetrical formation and the two even sheets
of water that pour over its brink unbroken make it very attractive. In
form it is like Niagara, and _like_ Niagara has its rocky island near the
middle. The eastern fall is about seven feet lower than the western, due
to the lava formation over which the water flows. The falls are between
twenty-five and thirty feet in height according to the melting of the
snows. The rocky islet is split asunder and a solid stream of water pours
through the cleft forming a central fall. The spray and mist from the
falls are visible for many miles around and to one accustomed to look
for hot springs, whenever mists are seen rising in a column from the
plain, this waterfall comes as a great surprise when one approaches the
unexpected canyon.
All the country side is historic land and is frequently mentioned in
the _Sagas_. When we left the river valley and climbed to the summit
of the tableland and were skirting the great bog, we recalled that it
was related in the _Saga_ of _Hrafnkell_, _Frey’s Priest_, how _Sámr_
with three ponies rode from _Mývatn_ across _Fljótsheiði_, River-Heath,
to _Ljósavatn_ Pass and on to the great fiord. We were taking the same
journey but in the opposite direction. The great heath on the upland is
typical of the highland heaths of Iceland and may be briefly described in
this connection.
It is a tongue of land some thirty miles long, reaching down from the
inland plateau between two great river valleys. When the summit is gained
it appears quite flat but a place where one would little expect to find
extensive bogs and marshes, but such is the case. We followed the bog at
its margin for nearly two hours in search of a place to cross and noted
that patches of water glimmered here and there. Beautiful Arctic flowers
fringed the margin of the pools, masses of _Eriophorum_, Cotton-Grass,
spread their white sheets in the sun and the dwarf birch and Arctic
willow tangled every foot of the way. Scores of ancient bridle trails cut
into the ground so deeply that in places the ponies rubbed their sides
against the turf in following them. Numerous sheep were scattered about
the moorland singly and in groups of three to a dozen. Often a sheep
would get into the trail and run in front of the ponies for half an hour
bleating in a frightened manner. This custom of making a needless run
until exhausted and driven far from their companions speaks strongly
for the small intelligence of these domestic animals. The sheep run
wild upon the mountain pastures and moors throughout the summer and are
characteristic features of the landscape.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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