Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
At the narrow neck of glacial moraine where we crossed the great bog
we halted for an hour for lunch and to graze the ponies and shift the
saddles. These out of door luncheons are real picnics. One turns up the
lid of a packing case for a table, seats himself upon the grass and
finds more enjoyment in the repast than at the best spread board in a
fashionable hotel. The plover and whimbrel are always about to add their
joyous cries to the calling of the curious sheep, the ponies graze
contentedly around the outer circle of the luncheon board and over all
is the deep blue vault and showers of glorious sunshine. Those hours of
rest and refreshment upon the heather and the enjoyment of the pipe! We
were veritable Arabs, our steeds the thoroughbred Icelandic ponies and
our oasis the patch of grass in the midst of a great lava desolation.
There are no palm trees beside the water hole to complete the Oriental
scene but a pillar of lava shelters one from the wind, or, if the day be
sultry, one may crawl beneath a scrub of Arctic willow to ward off the
sun and it is then, if the flies are present, that the pipe is a double
comfort.
In the middle of the afternoon as we were descending a ridge into a
gully with a boggy brook to cross we heard a shout from the top of the
ridge, “Turn to the left, the crossing is better.” Looking back we saw
a party of several Icelanders galloping down the slope, led by a portly
gentleman with a smiling countenance. We paused till he approached and
were surprised to have him address us by name and add that he expected us
to spend the night at his home. It was _Árni Jónsson_ of _Skútustaðir_,
Cave-Stead, the Dean of _Mývatn_, accompanied by his wife and three
friends. They had just come from _Akureyri_, having stopped at the
parsonage of _Háls_ while we had been at _Ljósavatn_. From this moment
until we reached his farm the ride was most enjoyable on account of the
companionship of the Dean. Several years of his early life had been
passed in North Dakota and he was well acquainted with the customs of the
United States. He spoke English with fluency and had many questions to
ask about America. We were glad to give him the information in return for
the many questions we found necessary to ask him about Iceland and the
customs of his people.
With sixteen ponies we made a merry showing as eight of us rode in single
file at a full gallop over the undulating moor, now rising to the top
of a ridge with a broad view of the country bordering the lake we were
approaching, now descending into a gully rich in grass where we made
the customary halt to rest the ponies. Towards evening we rode down to
the _Kráká_, Crow-River, which we forded and soon afterwards arrived at
the farm of the Dean. We were ushered into the sitting room, a separate
room was provided for our luggage and we were given a large room over
the _Thinghús_ adjoining. The _Thinghús_ in each _Syssel_, County,
corresponds to the Court House in our Counties.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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