II THE LURE 31 _Why I Go to Iceland._ III THE WAY 34 _How to Get There._ IV FAROE 37 _The Faroe Islanders, their Manners and their Islands._ V VESTMANNEYJAR 50 _The Westman Islands on the South-west Coast._ VI REYKJAVIK 60 _Educational and Sociological._ VII THINGVELLIR 76 _The Mecca of Iceland, Historical, Descriptive._ VIII GEYSIR 98 _The Greatest Geyser Known._ IX GULLFOSS 117 _Waterfalls, People and Customs._ X HEKLA 131 _Its Ascent, Its History, Its Grandeur._ XI KRISUVIK 157 _Descriptive Customs and Information._ ICELAND REVISITED 182 _An Appreciation._ XII SEYÐISFJÖRÐR 184 _The East Coast, the Scenery and the People._ XIII MÝVATN 204 _The Fairest Spot in All That Land._ XIV KRAFLA 229 _Volcanic, Historical, Experiences._ XV VATNSDALR 243 _Descriptive, Sagas and Romance._ XVI REYKHOLT 275 _Caves, Waterfalls, Hot Springs and Snorri._ XVII APPENDIX 300 _Notes and Corrections._ INDEX 306 ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE Mrs. Russell in Festal Costume of _Iceland_, the Author in Full Dress of the _Faroese_, _Frontispiece_ Cutting up Whale Meat at _Thorshavn_, 38 Heads of the Bottle Nose Whale, 38 _Helgafell_, Volcanic Cone, _Vestmannaeyjar_, 56 A Chain of Basalt Pyramids in _Faroe_, 56 The Hay Market and the Harbor at _Reykjavik_, 66 An Odd Corner in _Reykjavik_, 66 The Latin School at _Reykjavik_, 72