Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
Excavations made in the volcanic sand in 1910 by Baron Klinckowström
of Stockholm help to fix the date of the last eruption of the volcano.
In the sand and ash he found evidences of a former people, a comb of
ancient Scandinavian construction and the bones of the seal and sheep.
One great volcano formerly covered this entire area and poured out ashes
and cinder all around it. This material has since solidified into tufa
and much of the tufa has been worn away, leaving many solid columns of
the original lava core, which stand isolated in the sea. Then came the
second eruption when the crater of _Helgafell_ was formed. The references
given in the Landámabók and the exhumed material fix the date of this
eruption subsequent to the settlement of the island by the Irish slaves.
The tufa itself is very hard for this class of volcanic rock. It is
weathered in fantastic forms with myriads of niches and contains several
sea caves. One of these is so large that we entered it in a thirty foot
naptha launch and turned about within. The view from within is strange
and impressive. The deep azure of the waters, the light brown tufa dome,
the dark cone of _Helgafell_ rising above the village and the clouds of
sea birds shadowing the entrance to the cave and filling the air with a
resounding clangor on our exit made a mark on memory’s tablet never to be
effaced.
The most interesting occupation in _Heimaey_ is bird catching. Of course
the fish curing is worthy of attention, but then it is much the same
whether we see it on the drear coast of Labrador, the green slopes of
the Faroes, the lava blocks of Iceland or the wood stages of Gloucester.
With the inhabitants of this volcanic pile it is not only a business
it is a pleasure and an art which has culminated with generations of
experience. The fulmar, puffin and guillemot are the principal birds
taken. Throughout the summer the raucid clamor of the fulmars on the face
of the cliffs mingles with the complaints of the puffins which stand in
long rows like lines of soldiers, and the guillemots scan each other
sagely from their captured niches in the tufa. These mammoth cliffs are
riddled with holes and cracks and ornamented with narrow, projecting
ledges. Above the cliffs there is an abundance of loose material where
the shearwaters and puffins excavate their burrows.
[Illustration: _Helgafell, Volcanic Cone in Vestmannaeyjar._
_A Chain of Basalt Pyramids in Faroe._]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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