Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
At four in the afternoon we reached _Galtalaekur_, Boar-Brook, a poor
little farm, just a remnant of grass between the black lava and the
ash heaps where once a myriad acres of the choicest grazing lands in
Iceland supported a large population. The buildings are very old and are
strictly of the ancient type, consisting of a series of six stone and
turfed walled huts built side by side. Each hut has a gable in front, no
two of the same height, but the roof is rounded down to the ground at
the back. The eaves of the adjacent roofs coalesce and in the gutters
the flowers attain an abnormal development. There is no regularity as to
the size of the different sections of the house. Each portion appears to
have been added in times of increasing prosperity as needed and built in
proportions according to the increment of need. They have been so long
constructed that age, even in an Icelandic house, is showing itself
and as the building grew from one end, so now, from this same end is
it crumbling. The family are retreating from house to house and unless
better times come to this farm in the way of grass for cattle and sheep,
a few generations more will drive the family to the last enclosure and
then,—abandonment.
Let us enter the house. To do so we must stoop beneath the lintel and
step down into the passage which has walls of turf, yellow and centuries
dry, and an earth floor packed and worn by the trampling of unnumbered
generations. There is no light in the passage save what comes through the
open door and as we turn to our right, at right angles, blackness faces
us. Groping a little further a gleam of light locates a door at the right
which we open to enter the guest room. Here there is also evidence of
age. The room is well finished with Norway spruce and innocent of paint.
Age has given to the wood a dark rich brown which no paint can imitate or
equal in richness of color. A triple window lets in a flood of light for
there are no such unsanitary things as blinds and curtains. The windows
are after the Danish plan, split through the middle, hinged at the sides
and open outwards like American blinds. This is an excellent innovation
of recent years and is often the only method of ventilation. Wood houses
admit an abundance of air through unnumbered cracks and chinks in the
joining, especially if built for speculation, but walls of turf two to
three feet thick are proof against the slightest drafts. Miss Oswald
in 1880 described the windows as being set solidly into the walls with
no way to open. She felt the oppression of the foul air so much that
she often broke out a light of glass and paid for “the accident” in the
morning with an added apology. The influence of the medical officers in
their fight to decrease tuberculosis has produced the desired change in
window construction. I never found a guest room where the windows did
not open as above described. The furniture of this room consisted of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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