In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and homeGriffith, George Chetwynd
History
In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and home
Griffith, George Chetwynd
Crime; Criminals; New Caledonia -- Social conditions -- 19th century; Penal colonies -- New Caledonia
If she had been allowed to leave an English port at all she would have
been licensed to carry about eight passengers aft and twenty on deck.
On this passage she had twelve first-class, about fifteen second, and
between fifty and sixty on deck, including twenty convicts and _relégués_
on the forecastle, and a dozen hard cases in chains on the forehatch.
She also carried a menagerie of pigs, goats, sheep, poultry, geese,
and ducks, which wandered at their own will over the deck-cargo which
was piled up to the tops of her bulwarks. Her quarter-deck contained
about twenty square feet, mostly encumbered by luggage. The second-class
passengers had to dine here somehow. The first-class dined in the saloon
in relays.
The food was just what a Frenchman would eat on a Caledonian coast-boat.
It was cooked under indescribable conditions which you couldn’t help
seeing; but for all that the miserable meals were studiously divided into
courses just as they might have been in the best restaurant in Paris.
Everything was dirty and everything smelt. In fact the whole ship
stank so from stem to stern that even the keenest nose could not have
distinguished between the smell of fried fish and toasted cheese. The
pervading odours were too strong. Moreover, nearly every passenger was
sick in the most reckless and inconsiderate fashion; so when it came to
the midday meal I got the _maître d’hôtel_, as they called the greasy
youth who acted as chief steward, to give me a bottle of wine, a little
tin of tongue, and some fairly clean biscuits, and with these I went
for’rard on to the forecastle and dined among the convicts.
The forecastle was high out of the water, and got all the breeze, and the
convicts were clean because they had to be. I shared my meal and bread
and wine with two or three of them. Then we had a smoke and a yarn, after
which I lay down among them and went to sleep, and so _La France_ and her
unhappy company struggled and perspired through the long, hot day back
into plague-stricken Noumea. When I left _La France_ I cursed her from
stem to stern, and truck to kelson. If language could have sunk a ship
she would have gone down there and then at her moorings; but my anathemas
came back upon my own head, for the untoward Fates afterwards doomed me
to make three more passages in her.
To get clean and eat a decent dinner at the Cercle was something of a
recompense even for an all-day passage in _La France_. But it is not a
very cheerful place to come back to, for the shadow of the Black Death
was growing deeper and deeper over the town. The plague was worse than
ever. The microbe had eluded the sentries and got under or over the iron
barriers, and was striking down whites and blacks indiscriminately,
wherefore I concluded that Noumea was a very good place to get out of,
and, as I thought, made my arrangements for doing so as quickly as
possible.
VII
_THE PLACE OF EXILES_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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