In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and homeGriffith, George Chetwynd
History
In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and home
Griffith, George Chetwynd
Crime; Criminals; New Caledonia -- Social conditions -- 19th century; Penal colonies -- New Caledonia
When we had inspected the camp at the terminus and, for the Commandant’s
sake, I had duly admired the landing-stage, the trim buildings, and the
gardens in which the flowers and vegetables were struggling for existence
in the burning iron soil, the State car was brought out for us.
It was a platform on wheels, with four sloping seats facing backwards. I
could see the line twining away up through the forest, but there was no
engine.
Presently it, or, rather, they, materialised at the summons of the Chief
Surveillant. Fifteen blue-clad figures, each with a halter and hook-rope
over his shoulder, came out of one of the dormitories. There was a long
chain shackled to the front of the car. At an order the human beasts of
draught passed the halters over their heads and hooked on to the chain,
seven on each side and one ahead.
Then the Commandant invited the company to mount. There were seven of
us. The Commandant had brought his two little girls, and there were four
besides: the Chief Surveillant, who weighed fifteen stone if he weighed
a pound, the Chief Forester, who weighed a good twelve stone, and the
Doctor and myself, who were comparatively light weights.
I had often seen convicts harnessed to carts in England, and, of course,
I had ridden many miles in rickshaws in the East, but this was the first
time I had ever travelled in a car drawn by human beings who did it
because they had to, and who would have had their food docked if they had
refused to do it, and I confess that I didn’t exactly like it. Still, I
took my place, and the strange journey began.
At first it didn’t seem very bad, for the line was almost level, but when
we got into the hills the collar-work began, and our human cattle had to
bend their necks and their backs to it.
The line wound up through cuttings and over bridges at what seemed to me
an ever-increasing gradient. It was a damp, muggy, tropical morning. It
was not exactly raining, but the moisture soaked you to the bones for
all that, and the leaves and branches of the vast virgin forest on either
hand shone and dripped as the moisture condensed on them.
We perspired sitting still and making no more exertion than was necessary
for breathing, so you can imagine how those poor wretches tugging at
the chains sweated—and, great heavens, how they stank!—though the most
fastidious, under the circumstances, could hardly blame them for this.
For very shame’s sake I got off and walked whenever there was an excuse.
It made breathing pleasanter. So did the Doctor, who was a botanist
and found us Venus’ Fly-Traps and other weird vegetable monsters. The
Forester also got off now and then, not from motives of mercy, but to
point out varieties of timber to the Commandant. The Chief Surveillant
sat tight, probably on account of his weight, until I wanted to put him
into one of the halters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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