In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
Bougie, which is the natural seaport of Kabylia, is superbly situated
on the slopes of Mount Guraya, which are so steep that the red-roofed,
white-walled buildings of the town seem in imminent danger of sliding
into the sea. Many of its streets, in fact, are too precipitous for
vehicular traffic, being ascended, as in the case of certain Italian
towns, by long flights of stairs. There is a theatrical air about the
place, roofed with rose-red tiles and smothered in crimson bougainvillea,
as it rises, tier on tier, above a U-shaped harbor on whose ultramarine
waters ride at anchor vessels which bear beneath their sterns the
names of half the ports along the Mediterranean, fishing-craft with
hibiscus-colored lateen-sails, a French destroyer, slim and gray.
Frowning on the heights above the town is an ancient Spanish fortress
whose crumbling, mellow-tinted walls might have been built from
papier-mâché by a designer of stage-scenery. At its back rises the
great rock of Guraya, topped by a shrine which is a place of pilgrimage
for pious Moslems; while behind that in turn tower skyward the mighty
peaks of Babor and Tababort, dominating and dwarfing all else. As I
breakfasted on the lofty, rose-embowered balcony of my hotel, the ruined
corsair castle clinging to the hillside just above me, the red-and-white
town sprawling at my feet, and the sun-flecked, bright blue sea as a
back-drop, I always had the feeling that I was in a box at the theater,
and that shortly the orchestra would strike up and a chorus of pirates
and peasant maidens would come prancing out upon the stage.
Skirting the edge of the precipitous headland on which Bougie stands,
or hewn from its face, is the finest cliff walk I have ever seen; a
narrow foot-path, nearly four miles long and in places barely a yard
in width, every turn of which reveals a view of sea or mountains which
causes one to gasp with admiration and awe. The Strandweg at Abbazia, the
pergola-covered walk of the Cappuccini-Convento above Amalfi, the path
which borders the cliffs of Anacapri, all these are very lovely in their
way; but I, who have seen most of the sights this world has to offer,
assure you that none of them can compare in grandeur and beauty with
Bougie’s promenade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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