In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
The walled gardens of Mustapha Supérieur are places of sheer delight,
heavy with fragrance and aglow with color. They are crowded with plants
and trees of every variety and clime—palms from the South Seas and
Malaysia; Japanese bamboos, eucalyptus and blue-gums from Australia;
Spanish oranges and lemons; dragon-trees from China; stately rows of
dark Italian cypress; fruit-trees from the south of France. Splashes
of vivid color are provided by great masses of crimson or magenta
bougainvillea, by clusters of arum-lily, iris, and narcissus. As for
roses, they are everywhere, clambering over the walls, festooning arbors
and summer-houses, forming hedges of pink, yellow, red, or white. And the
ground is covered with a purple carpet of long-stemmed Algerian violets
whose perfume fills the air.
The suburb of Mustapha takes its name from one of the deys, who erected
the palace now used as the official residence of the governor-general of
Algeria. Few if any of the world’s rulers can boast such a residence, for
it is built in the colorful Moorish style, rich in marbles, faiences,
and mosaics, and stands amid gardens of fairy-like loveliness which look
down upon the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean. It did not prove a
good investment for its luxury-loving builder, however, for the vast sums
he squandered on it so angered the Janizaries, whose pay was perpetually
in arrears, as to bring about his disgrace and death. The ideal time to
see the gardens of the palace is during an evening fête—one of those
scented, languorous African nights when the moon throws a white beam
athwart the darkened waters of the Mediterranean, when the fragrance of
flowers intoxicates the senses, and the air is as soft as the cheek of
a lovely woman. The trees are festooned with myriads of little colored
lights, red, blue, and white; across the velvet lawns or along the marble
terraces stroll men in brilliant uniforms, and bare-shouldered, bejeweled
women; beneath a clump of palms the red-jacketed spahi band is softly
playing....
If you are interested in seeing what the soil and climate of Algeria
are capable of producing in the way of vernal loveliness, you should
not fail to visit the Jardin d’Essai, an extremely successful attempt
at acclimatization on a large scale, which was established by the
government nearly a century ago on the flats of Mustapha Inférieur. If
you expect something unusual in landscape gardening, however, you will
be disappointed, for there is nothing here to compare with the superb
effects which have been achieved at Peradeniya in Ceylon or in those most
wonderful of all tropical gardens at Buitenzorg in Java. But the Jardin
d’Essai has one feature which in itself well repays the trouble of a
visit: a magnificent avenue of India-rubber trees which have attained
gigantic size, in some cases twenty feet around and three times that in
height.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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