In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
When you have concluded your visit to the Jardin d’Essai, I hope that
you will cross the road to one of the little open-air native cafés which
are set amid groves of trees above the Mediterranean. You can have tea,
or an ice, or the thick, sweet Arab coffee, but the chief thing is the
view, particularly toward sunset, when from the tables, as from nowhere
else, you can obtain a glimpse of the old Algiers, the city of the
corsairs, the white terraces of the town glowing like ivory in the soft
afternoon light, the masts of the shipping in the harbor mirrored in the
calm opalescent waters.
On the slopes of Mustapha Supérieur, a few minutes’ walk from the Jardin
d’Essai, is the Algerian Museum, which contains an admirably arranged
collection of objects illustrative of the country’s varied history,
including the flint instruments of primitive man, an assortment of Punic
earthenware from Gouraya, Roman mosaics and sculptures, and numerous
examples of Berber and Arab handicraft. It is laudably confined, as Mr.
Thomas-Stanford remarks, to Algerian antiquities and native art; unlike
so many American museums, it contains no irrelevant South Sea Island
curios; it has not been used as a receptacle for the rubbish of the local
collector, a dumping-ground for the perplexed widow and the embarrassed
executor.
By far the most interesting object in the museum, though a very gruesome
one, is the plaster cast of a young man, lying face downward, his hands
and feet bound with cords, his torso arched, his muscles strained in
agony. It is not a cheap replica of some celebrated statue, as most
casual visitors assume, but a life-mask which depicts with ghastly
veracity the agonizing death-struggles of a man who was buried alive!
Were it that and nothing more it would merely be revolting, but it is in
some measure redeemed from the horrible by its amazing history.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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