In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
And everywhere is the loot of Carthage. Those fluted marble columns, now
striped in green and scarlet, like sticks of peppermint candy, may once
have supported the roof of Dido’s palace. Those exquisitely sculptured
capitals, their delicate tracery all but concealed beneath repeated
coatings of whitewash, were in all likelihood executed by Phenician
workmen, dead these twenty centuries and more, for the temple of the
goddess Tanith. Yonder slab of polished stone, on which the shoemaker is
seated, quite possibly stood in ancient times before the statue of the
great god Baal, dripping with the blood of human sacrifices. Who knows?
On a first visit to the _souks_ it seems impossible to think of
finding one’s way unguided through this bewildering network of narrow,
winding thoroughfares, this human rabbit-warren. Here, as in the even
more extensive and confusing bazaars of Tehran, I felt like taking
a ball of string along and unwinding it behind me, like an explorer
of a subterranean cavern, so that I might find my way back to my
starting-point again. But after a time the general topography becomes
clear, and then it is easy to wander in and out at will, with the
assurance that confusion, or even a total loss of bearings, means nothing
worse than an extra turn or two and then the sight of some unmistakable
landmark, such as the green sarcophagus which all but blocks the narrow
way through the street of the leather-workers. It is the coffin of a
marabout—an itinerant holy man—set there to confer a special blessing
on the _souks_ by its presence. It is painted a vivid green, ornamented
with designs in red and yellow, and the garments of the endless stream
of humanity which pushes past it have put a high polish on its edges.
Personally, were I a merchant, I should not care to have a coffin resting
permanently at the front door of my business premises, but the Tunisians
seem to regard it very much as Grant’s Tomb is regarded by the dwellers
on Riverside Drive.
[Illustration: HERE SCHEHERAZADE MIGHT HAVE TOLD HER TALES
Seated cross-legged on the cushion-piled divan, with silken carpets at
her feet, soft music of flute and viol floating down from the balcony,
the air heavy with the fragrance of flowers and incense, black slaves to
wait upon her, and guardian eunuchs at the gate]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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