XXI. IN THE SHADOW OF THE SHEREEFIAN UMBRELLA 400 XXII. SOUTH TO THE FORBIDDEN SUS 424 A SHORT GLOSSARY OF ARABIC WORDS AND PHRASES COMMONLY USED IN BARBARY 459 INDEX 469 ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE A soldier of Africa _Frontispiece_ Lo, all the pomp of yesterday 17 Here Scheherazade might have told her tales 32 Church and state in Tunisia 37 Thirteen centuries look down upon you 44 A gate to Barbary 49 They spend their holidays among the dead 64 The city of the mole-men 85 Homes of the Troglodytes 92 The voice from the minaret 97 The marabout in the desert 112 In the land of polygamy and passion 117 One of the most amazing ruins in the world 121 Medenine, the strangest city in the world 124 The Sun-God paints his picture in the West 129 Like feathered bonnets on the heads of a savage army 144 The fantastic dwellings of Mechounech 149 The forgotten of God 156 The sandy sea 161 Basking in the blinding sunlight of the Tunisian Sahara 176 The road to Timbuktu 181 Crossing the sand-dunes of the Grand Erg by motor 185 To prove that we were really there 188 A landmark for those who navigate the sea of sand 193 The shrine in the sands 196 The sand-storm 205 The sport of kings 208 The city of the Mozabites 213 Far hence, in some lone desert town 217 The start from Touggourt 220 The strange capital of a strange people 225 Desert damsels, old and young 229 What the pious Moslem expects to find in paradise 236