Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
The Chateau of Angers is bare and unadorned, with nothing to remind us
of the ceremonies and festivities that so annoyed Sully in the far away
time when Henry of Navarre and the charming Gabrielle held high festival
here. After its days of fighting and feasting were well over, the castle
was used as a prison. Now, with the thrift for which the French are
proverbial, this substantial building is used as a depot for military
stores. The only things suggestive of the gentler side of life are the
little chapel, and the castle within the castle, a small Renaissance
house in which the family of the prince lived in times of siege. The
walk around the top of the walls is well worth taking, not only because
it intensifies the impression of size and strength, but also because it
gives a charming view of the country round about. In front the Maine
flows calmly by to its junction with the Loire three or four miles to
the left; across the river there is an old suburb of the town with a few
good churches and old houses, and farther upstream near the river's
edge, stands what Walter calls "a business-like looking old tower" which
he thinks must have guarded a bridge connected with the ramparts. To the
right the cathedral looms up, its clumsy base hidden by other buildings
and its slender spires dominating the town. Beyond the town stretch
rich, green fields, with an occasional old windmill flapping its arms
and a slow boat drifting lazily down the river.
Even if Angers has never been one of the most important cities of
France, it seems always to have been a place of moderate consequence, as
it still is. There are a few good private houses dating several
centuries back, the most pretentious of these being the Hotel de Pince,
a charming Renaissance building, standing in the heart of the town and
now used as a museum of antiquities and _objets d'art_. There was no
guide to tell us the history of this house and the books are equally
reticent about its traditions. The Hotel de Pince looks like a charming
miniature chateau, suggesting Azay-le-Rideau or some of the Renaissance
houses in Tours, in its general style, and like them it makes one feel
that the builders of those days understood elegance and beauty better
than they did comfort and ease. Whatever king or noble or knight-at-arms
lived in this house, his women-folk had to drag their brocaded trains up
and down steep twisting stone staircases, and also to be content with
very little light and air in many of their elegant rooms. The rich
Angevin _bourgeoisie_ built these half-timbered houses, which are
somewhat like those that one sees so often in Normandy. One of the most
elaborate of these is the so-called Maison d'Adam, just behind the
cathedral, which, although it does not date back to our first ancestor,
is sufficiently ancient in appearance to satisfy our antiquarian tastes.
Much of the carving on the uprights is elaborate and effective, even if
bearing evidences of frequent restorations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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