Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
Seeing in the distance the curious, enigmatical Pile de Cinq Mars, we
suddenly realized that we were quite near Luynes, and Walter told
Francois to stop there as he knew that Archie would be charmed with the
beauty of the situation of this chateau which hangs high, like an
eagle's nest, upon a bluff above the lowlands and the river. While we
were walking around and about the chateau, we suddenly came upon Mr. and
Mrs. Otis Skinner standing at the entrance to a little smithy, quite
near the rock-hewn steps that lead up to the chateau. We have seen so
few Americans, and no friends or acquaintances since we left Tours, and
now, as we are again approaching the old town, to meet these good
friends was a great pleasure. Mr. Skinner took us into the smithy, which
is so charmingly situated, and we wondered again, as at Cheverny, why
even a blacksmith's workshop is so much more picturesque here than in
England or America. While Mr. Skinner was standing talking to the
blacksmith, Lydia and Archie and Mrs. Skinner managed to get snapshots
of the forge. If it is satisfactory, I will send you a photograph, as we
intend to exchange pictures and you shall have the very best.
After this encounter, we sped along on our way toward Tours, wondering
whether Mr. Skinner was collecting material, atmosphere, etc., for a
French play. We are glad that our way lay through Tours and that Archie
could have even a fleeting glimpse of the old capital. To motor across
the great bridge and along the wide Rue Nationale, and to have another
look at St. Gatien, with its two beautiful towers, and at those other
towers of Charlemagne and de l'Horloge was a joy, even if there was not
time to stop over at Tours for an hour.
At Blois we gathered up our luggage, left the automobile and took the
train for Orleans. We parted from our Francois with much regret, as we
have come to like his honest, frank face and his pleasant French ways.
Walter and Archie, I am quite sure, gave him a generous remembrance,
Archie especially being quite in sympathy with his dreams of love in a
Touraine cottage. We all wished him happiness, not without some
misgivings on my part, I must admit, lest his Eloisa of the bright eyes
should play him false for the charms of some one of those red-legged
soldiers, who seem to possess an irresistible charm for French women,
who are always ready to sing "J'aime le militaire."
From Blois to Orleans is a railroad journey of a little over an hour,
through a fertile, but a rather monotonous country abounding in fields
of turnips. From the quantities of this vegetable raised here, we
naturally conclude that the peasants of this part of France subsist
chiefly upon turnips, as the Irish do upon potatoes. We passed through
many gray villages, which tone in with the shades of the silver poplars,
and this with certain gray atmospheric effects in the landscape makes us
realize how true to life are the delicate gray-green canvases of many of
the French artists.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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