Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
The Orleans station, like that of Tours, is a delusion and a snare, as
we were suddenly landed at Les Aubrais, one of the outskirts of the old
city and from thence had to make our way to Orleans as best we could. We
had fortunately been able to send our small luggage directly through to
Paris by putting it in the _consigne_, and paying ten centimes on each
article. This convenient and economical device, which with all our
travel we had never discovered, was revealed to us by the two charming
Connecticut ladies whom we met at Amboise. Walter calls down blessings
upon the pretty heads of these two wise New England women whenever we
make a stop over between trains; and Miss Cassandra ejaculates: "It
takes a Yankee, my dears, to find out the best way to do everything on
the top of the earth!"
Having only ourselves to dispose of, we soon found an omnibus which
conveyed us to the Place du Martroi, the soul and centre of the ancient
city of Orleans, where is fitly placed an equestrian statue of Jeanne
d'Arc, by Foyatier. This statue does not, however, happily suggest the
Maid, as the peasant girl of Domremy is here represented with a fine
Greek profile, and, as Archie noticed, with his keen horseman's eye, the
charger upon which she is mounted is a race-horse and not a war-horse.
It is, however, a noble and dignified memorial, on the whole, in which
it differs from the grotesque affair at Chinon, and Dubray's low reliefs
on the sides of the pedestal, representing important scenes in the life
of the Maid, are beautiful and impressive.
Here in Orleans, the scene of Joan's first and most remarkable success,
we live more completely in the life and spirit of that wonderful period
than at Chinon. The marvel of it all impressed us more forcibly than
ever before. That this peasant girl, young and ignorant of the art of
war, by the power of her sublime faith in her heaven-sent mission and
in herself as the divinely appointed one, should have wrested this city
from the English, seems nothing short of the miracle that she and her
soldiers believed it to be. Even that hard-headed and cold-hearted
sovereign, Louis XI, was so overawed by the story of Joan's victories
that he marked with tablets the little room at Domremy where she was
born, and also the convent of Sainte Catherine de Fierbois, where she
was received and where she found her sword with the five crosses.
We knew that the Place du Martroi was not the scene of Joan's martyrdom,
and yet this wide, noble square, with her monument in the centre, from
which diverge so many streets associated with her history, stood for
infinitely more to us than anything we had seen at Rouen, the actual
place of her martyrdom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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