In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
After a short cruise with the squadron in Singapore waters, during which
period the "Tyne" arrived with our new captain, and having bid good-bye
to Captain Cleveland, we stood away for Hong Kong, encountering such
heavy weather on the passage that we were compelled to put into Saigon
for coal.
The anchorage to seaward of Saigon--which town is the French capital of
Gambodin, part of the kingdom of Anam, and situated some miles up the
river Dong-nai--is Cape St. James, where we brought up until the tide
should suit for the river passage. In the first watch we commenced to go
up the river by the light of a brilliant moon, which, however, did not
allow us to judge of the beauties of what is really a beautiful river.
By the following morning we had arrived off the town; and what a
surprise it was to see a popular European town in such a situation, well
laid out, clean, and--well, thoroughly French. The river here is so
narrow, and yet of so even a depth, that, in turning, our dolphin
striker was buried in the foliage on the one bank and our stern almost
touching the opposite one. The town is seemingly built on a well-drained
swamp or marsh, and consequently lies very low, in fact, from our
topgallant forecastle we could command a pretty general view of the
whole of it. Ashore the place is just as pretty as it looks from the
ship. It is almost a miniature of Paris. A great cathedral, Notre
Dame--an exact model of that on the island in the Seine; a palace for
the governor, which might well accommodate an emperor; streets with
Parisian names; boulevards and champs, all bearing the well-known
nomenclature of the gay capital; cafes, hotels, all remind one of the
Paris of Dumas' charming novels. It is the boulevards, streets, and
promenades, planted with trees, which make Saigon so beautiful, so cool,
and so refreshing towards the evening even in a temperature where to
live is a punishment. It is not until sunset that we see anything of
the French population,--then, indeed, the cafes and restaurants are in
full swing, and gay with music and laughter. These places of refreshment
are generally _al fresco_; and as each tiny pure white marble table is
presided over by pretty wholesome-looking French girls and matrons, we
must have less impressionable hearts than sailors are known to possess
if we can pass so much mischief by unnoticed, so courteous as these
demoiselles are too.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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