In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
October 26th.--Left for Wosung, anchoring in the Yang-tsze, after a
quick run of four days across the Yellow Sea. We are to await here the
arrival of the flying squadron. Meanwhile an opportunity was given us of
visiting the great European metropolis of China. The "Foxhound" was
ordered down from Shanghai, and converted into a passenger steamer, for
the benefit of our ship's company. Shanghai at this time offered plenty
of scope for enjoyment to sailors. The city is divided into three
principal parts or "concessions"--English, French, and American--the
English being far more extensive than the other two combined, and much
more beautiful, with clean broad streets, houses like palaces, and shops
which would do no discredit to Regent street or the Strand. The great
attraction was the races, held outside the city, on the Nankin Road,
near which is an extensive race-course.
Of the native city--well--perhaps the less said the better. It is full
of the foulest filth and abominations in which it is possible for even a
Chinaman to exist. I will not afflict my readers with a description of
its horrors; it would scarcely be fit reading for our friends. Fever and
plague are ever rife within the city gates, a fact so well established
that the European residents never visit this quarter. We had not been
warned of this, however, and the result was that some of our men, who
had weakened their systems with poisonous liquor, fell victims to some
disease very like cholera, which in two cases proved fatal within
twenty-four hours. I trust these awfully terrible examples were not
without their lesson to us. (Shipmates, there is a higher aspiration
within the reach of every sailor than that of blindly devoting himself
to the service of the "boozy" god, a self-immolation which leaves no
enjoyment--no healthy enjoyment, I mean--to its devotees. It must be,
and I know it is so, that every one such feels ashamed of himself
afterwards, and calls himself by hard but honest adjectives when the
"bad head" period comes on.) I am thankful to state that our other cases
recovered, though not until almost all hope had well-nigh gone.
November 22nd.--To-day the long-expected flying squadron arrived, and
took up positions ahead of us. The following ships comprised
it--"Inconstant" (flag), "Bacchante," "Cleopatra," "Tourmaline," and
"Carysfort."
For days past much activity has existed amongst the junk fleet in this
neighbourhood. Dozens of these trim-built and picturesque-looking craft
have lately accumulated here to give the princes a proper reception. Day
after day they have duly gone through some extraordinary and to us
meaningless evolutions, all flags, gongs, yells, and gunpowder.
November 24th.--Leaving the squadron to the joy and festivities of
Shanghai, once more we head for Hong Kong. We thought then it was for
the last time; but hopes have been shattered so frequently of late that
we were not prepared to bet on it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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