In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
Whilst at anchor, awaiting the tide to cross the outer bar, our
attendant pilot boat came to grief under our bows. Everybody who knows
anything of Chinese rivers--of the Yangtsze in particular--will have
often remarked how great a velocity the current attains at near low
water, making boating alongside a ship an almost impossible and
extremely hazardous proceeding. The water hisses, seethes, and boils
past the sides as if the ship was under weigh in a heavy sea; thus when
the little vessel reached our bows there was nothing to save her.
Fortunately she came down upon us in such a manner that she escaped with
the loss of mainmast and sail, whilst a little damage was done to our
head-gear in the scrimmage.
November 30th.--Again the well-known rig of the Canton fishing junks
heaves in sight, and ere long the equally well-known outline of Victoria
Peak, the most welcome sight on the station, after all said and done. In
a few hours that prince of bumboat men, old Attam, had paid us a visit,
giving us a kindly welcome, with his good-tempered, ever-smiling, and
flat celestial face.
December 20th.--To-day at noon the flying squadron came in from the
northward. Their arrival was awaited by eager and expectant crowds
thronging the shore, in anticipation of witnessing the landing of the
young royal middies. In this they were disappointed. The same absence of
ceremony and reserve was to be observed here, with respect to the
queen's grandsons, as was recently followed out in Shanghai, and which
gave so much umbrage to the residents of that city. It was soon
officially known that whilst staying at Hong Kong, the princes would be
publicly recognised simply as "mids."
The Europeans and other foreign residents were quite prepared to do the
honors handsomely, had things been ordered differently. These
shortcomings were however amply compensated for by the magnificence of
the Chinamen. It did not signify to them as to _how_ the princes were to
be treated; to them they were the queen's grandsons, midshipmen or not.
The two nights immediately preceding Christmas Day were devoted to the
grandest display of fireworks and illuminations I have ever witnessed,
and which, possibly, few men see but once in a lifetime. All accounts of
China agree that in the pyrotechnic art the Chinese stand alone,
unequalled.
We have all, no doubt, been struck when reading of the wonderful changes
of form assumed by their fireworks in the air. This, like many other
descriptions about this people, is rather misleading. What actually does
take place I will endeavour to show; only bear in mind the most perfect
description must fall far short of the startling reality.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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