In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
With what a sigh of relief and satisfaction we reach the top, and enter
within the welcome shade afforded by the signal-house. Refreshments are
eagerly sought after, anything to wash the dust out of one's mouth.
There is no lack of drinks here, very fortunately; beer and stout, and
something--which being put into lemonade bottles passes, I suppose, for
that beverage--are speedily, greedily, gulped down our parched throats.
The supposed lemonade which, by special desire, fell to my lot, was
enough to engender thoughts of disloyalty to a certain lady and her
cause in the mind of the stoutest champion of the league; and I took
considerable credit to myself that I passed scathless through such a
trying ordeal. What stuff! Just imagine, you who are drinking your stout
with such keen relish, and smacking your lips in such evident
satisfaction, imbibing a liquid as hot almost as the surrounding air,
and so insipid that I have tasted medicines far more palatable.
Opportunely I call to mind a proverb of our Spanish friends yonder, "The
sailor who would caulk his boat must not turn up his nose at pitch;" and
as, figuratively speaking, I want to caulk mine, I make a virtue of
necessity, and the obnoxious liquid vanishes.
Having regaled ourselves at a very moderate cost, all things considered,
we are invited to insert our names in the visitors' book. To satisfy a
curiosity we possess we turn back over the pages, to see who has honored
this height with their presence. We find princes from Germany, grandees
from Spain, professors from America, naval officers of almost all
nations, and ladies not a few. One person of a witty and poetical turn
thus records his and his friends' visit:--
"April 17th, 1878.
Three friends this day
Walked all the way
To the signal station;
There was W. T.,
With his chum, C. G.,
And R. H. of the British nation."
After such an enjoyable rest, suppose we just step outside on the
terrace, and have a look around whilst we "do" our tobacco.
We are at a height of 1255 feet above the level of the sea; and the
fatigue of the ascent is more than compensated by the view of the
splendid natural panorama, spread out like a map around us. The bay of
Gibraltar, with the houses of the town of Algeciras, are distinctly
visible; so, too, is the southern range of the Ronda mountains, the
purple Mediterranean, with the immense jumble of Afric's sparkling
shores, the Atlas mountains, the Neutral ground, and the Spanish lines.
These are some of the objects which never tire the eye. The precipices
below us are amazingly steep, in some cases the heights even overhang.
Many precious lives were lost through inadvertent steps during the first
occupation; and this suggests to me a story I have read somewhere, and
which I will ask your pardon for telling you.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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