In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
This was but the commencement of our sufferings for now the heat was
beginning to annoy us. To us who could go on deck when we wished it was
bad enough, but to those poor fellows who had to swelter and toil in the
stokehole it must have been very trying, though compared with what was
yet to come this was a mere bagatelle. We had encountered that blasting
wind known as the "sirocco"--the scourge of the Mediterranean--which
after gathering force and heat in the African deserts comes with its
fiery and sand-laden breath to sap the moisture from all who have not
the natures of salamanders. Fortunately we soon passed beyond its
sphere of action.
Darkness rapidly sets in in these regions of eternal summer. The sunny
shores and genial climes of the Mediterranean, where the very touch of
the air seems a perfumed caress, lack only one thing to make them a
paradise. Those pleasant hours which obtain in our less favoured land
after the sun has set, and which we call twilight, are entirely unknown
here, hours which England's youths and maidens generally appropriate to
themselves, and which, in after years, recall some of the sweetest
memories of their lives. Fancy a day deprived of such hours! No sooner
has Phoebus veiled his glorious beams than there is a general demand for
candles, and we find our liberal supply of two 'dips' a very inadequate
apology for about four hours' illuminating purposes on a draughty deck.
But we must haste on our way past the Tunisian Coast, past Galita,
onward through fleets of lateen rigged piratical looking crafts, with
snowy sails and bird-like movements, dashing their white wings in the
surge. We must not dwell too long on this peaceful and pleasant shore,
for Pantellaria--an island of more interest in one sense--begins to rise
ahead. This, in all probability, is the "Calypso's Isle" of the
classics, but now the less poetical "Botany Bay" of the Italians. I
should think that a few years' compulsory residence here is a thing to
be desired rather than not, for it is a delightful spot enough, a sort
of embryo continent, and nature seems to have achieved here some of her
grandest works in the smallest possible space and with the least
possible amount of material. As we near its shore we catch a glimpse of
a pure white town, gracefully reclining on the slopes of a hill at the
head of a perfect miniature of a bay. Artistically the effect is very
pleasing, the glistening white houses seem as if embowered in the
darkest of green foliage, each roof, each angle standing out most
distinctly. Much as we regret it we see charming Pantellaria vanishing
astern, for our engines will not cease their everlasting plunges to
satisfy any weaknesses of ours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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