"... Why should we toil alone, We only toil who are the first of things, And make perpetual moan, Still from one sorrow to another thrown: · · · · · · · · · · 'There is no joy but calm!' Why should we only toil, the roof and crown of things?" These are one's thoughts, while captivated by the charm of the islands, and if feelings change when analysed in more virile countries, the transformation of ideas only goes to show how relative to circumstances are such things as industry and idleness. The foregoing are a few prosaic items about a form of life which, although when indulged in too long, it perhaps causes now and again a desire for the amenities of civilisation and a shirt-front, yet when it is over, always leaves a longing for further experiences whenever one is haunted by thoughts of the palms, the sunlight, and the sea; wanderings in the jungle; strange birds, animals, and vegetation, and pleasant memories of easy-going islanders. CHAPTER I BARREN ISLAND AND THE ARCHIPELAGO Shipboard Monotony--Edible Sharks--Calm Nights--Squalls--Barren Island--Appearance--Anchorage--Landing-place--Hot Spring--Goats-- The Eruptive Cone--Lava--Paths--Interior of the Crater--Volcanic Activity--Fauna--Fish--The Archipelago--Kwang-tung Strait-- Path-making--The Jungle--Birds--Coral Reefs--Parrots--Two New Rats--Inhabitants. We were six days out from land before Barren Island hove in sight. Since New Year's Day,[5] when we got up anchor amongst the islands of the Mergui Archipelago, the schooner had been carried by the lightest of breezes towards the Andamans. The days slipped by, each one as monotonous as its predecessor; there was no change in the wind, save when it fell calm for a space, and the sun was so hot that we gladly sought shelter in the cabin, where occupation might be found with a book. Once we harpooned a porpoise, but he broke away from the iron, and now and again, on a line trailing astern, we caught a small shark, immediately claimed by the cook, to appear later on the table; for although the name seems instinctively to prejudice one against them, all sharks are edible, and the smaller species, which can scarcely include human material in their dietary scale, are by no means to be despised when fresh provisions are unobtainable, in spite of being often somewhat dry and flavourless. But the nights were ample compensation for any possible discomfort by day. Around was the calm flat sea, and overhead a pale blue sky, across which swung the tropic moon, so bright that all but the larger stars were drowned in light. Then, when the heat of day was over, we would take our pillows on deck and--in a perfect silence but for the creaking booms and the water gurgling in the scupper-pipes--watch mast and stars swing slowly to and fro until sleep brought unconsciousness of the night and its beauty.