In addition to the above, I am glad to state that owing to the publicity which I gave on my return to the outrageous Tibetan abuses taking place on British soil, the Government of India at last, in the summer of 1898, notified the Tibetan authorities that they will no longer be permitted to collect Land Revenue from British subjects there. This fact gives me special satisfaction, because of the exceptional courtesy and kindness bestowed on me by our mountain tribesmen, the Shokas. The Government Report of the official Investigation of my case, as well as other documents substantiating the details of my narrative, are printed in an appendix. A. H. S. L. _May 1899_ CONTENTS PREFACE p. ix LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS p. xxii I FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL Pp. 1-3 II Loads--A set of useful pack-saddle cases--Provisions and scientific outfit--Clothes and shoes--Medicines--Under way--The first march--Servants--How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing pp. 4-10 III Pithoragarh--Fakir women--A well-ventilated abode--Askote--The Rajiwar and his people Pp. 11-16 IV The Raots--A slippery journey--Superstitious notions--Anger and jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the savages--Photography--Habitations Pp. 17-26 V A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake--The spirits of the mountains--A safeguard against them--Tibetan encampments--The Rajiwar--A waterfall--Watermills Pp. 27-34 VI Highways and trade routes--The Darma route--The Dholi River--A rough track connecting two valleys--Glaciers--Three ranges and their peaks--Altitudes--_Darma, Johar_, and the _Painkhanda_ Parganas--The highest peak in the British Empire--Natural boundaries Pp. 35-40 VII The word _Bhot_ and its meaning--Tibetan influence--Tibetan abuses--The ever-helpful Chanden Sing--The first Shoka village--Chanden Sing in disgrace--Weaving-loom--Fabrics--All's well that ends well Pp. 41-45 VIII Prayers by wind-power--Photography under difficulties--A night of misery--Drying up--Two lady missionaries--Their valuable work--An interesting dinner party--An "eccentric" man's tea party Pp. 46-52 IX Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name of "monkey"--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of wind--Time and labour lost Pp. 53-56 X The _Nerpani_, or "waterless track"--Exaggerated accounts--A long shot--The rescue of two coolies--Picturesque Nature--An involuntary shower-bath--The _Chai_ Pass Pp. 57-62 XI A series of misfortunes--Tibetan atrocities on British subjects--Tibetan exactions--Revolting cruelty to one of her Majesty's subjects--Assault on a British officer--A smart British Envoy Pp. 63-68 XII Tibetan threats--My birthday--Ravenous dogs--A big dinner--Shoka hospitality Pp. 69-73