Algeria -- History -- 1830-1962; France. Armée. Légion étrangère; Rosen, Erwin, 1876-1923
Between long rows of stately palms and through shady olive groves we
marched. An omnibus rattled past. All the seats were occupied by Arabs.
The white splendour of a mosque shone from afar. On the balcony of its
high minaret a Mohammedan priest in flowing white robes slowly walked
to and fro, sharply outlined against the sky. The mosque was far away,
but I could hear the priest's sonorous voice calling to prayer:
"All' il Allah.... God is God."
We passed through the ancient gates of the city, which was surrounded
with thick, clumsy walls, encircling all Sidi-bel-Abbès. The old walls
had seen plenty of fighting. In their time they had been very useful to
the small garrison in the continuous struggle with the Beni Amer, who
had again and again tried to retake the place. Along the large
well-kept road we marched. Suddenly, at a turning, the barrack
buildings loomed up on both sides of the road--the Spahis' cavalry
barracks and the quarters of the Foreign Legion.
* * * * *
In single file we marched through a small side entrance alongside of
the cumbrous barrack gate. On a long bench near the gate the guard was
sitting. They stared at us, grinning stupidly. Their sergeant, with his
hands in pockets and a cigarette between the teeth, sized us up,
apparently inspecting our physique as if he were taxing a herd of
cattle. Then he passed judgment.
"Pas bon!" he remarked laconically to the corporal who escorted us. "No
good!" An ugly welcome it was. I stared at the immense gravel-covered
barrack yard and its scrupulous cleanness, at the immense buildings and
their naked fronts, at the bare windows. Why, this must be a madhouse
and I--surely I must be a madman, who had to live for five years (five
years said the contract) in a place like this. A weird feeling crept
over me. I must have lost my way. The moor had caught me. I was lost in
the jungle. Shut in by these walls I must spend my life. Must I live
among these uniformed human machines, amongst unthinking, unfeeling
automatons? My head swam. A feeling of despair came over me....
Everywhere in the barrack buildings windows were thrown open, and
légionnaires put their heads out, yelling:
"Eh--les bleus! Bonjour, les bleus!"
From all sides they came at a run, calling out to each other joyously,
"Les bleus." Our arrival appeared to be an amusement that should not be
missed. Hundreds of légionnaires gathered around us, while we were
waiting for orders in front of the regimental offices. The contrast
between the snowy neatness of their white fatigue uniforms and our
shabby attire was very much in their favour. We stood a crossfire of
questions, answers and jokes.
"Hello! Hadn't enough to eat, eh?" somebody yelled in German.
"That's as may be," replied Herr von Rader in cutting sarcasm. "You
didn't come to the Legion because you had too much money, did you?"
Applause and laughter greeted this answer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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