In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
When we reached Hermosillo, a place of about ten thousand people, the
station was filled with vendors of oranges; and such oranges I never
tasted elsewhere, although I have sampled that fruit in some of the
most famous groves of Florida and California. In sweetness, delicious
flavor, and juiciness they surpass all others; in fact it is impossible
to find a poor or insipid one among all you can buy and eat. It is a
pity there is so little market for this very superior fruit. The entire
country from Hermosillo down to the coast seems to be a perfect one
for orange culture, and for all other semi-tropical fruits. The prices
paid for oranges are very reasonable, for much more is grown than can
be consumed, and there seems to be little outlet for the surplus in any
direction.
Just before reaching Guaymas the railway winds among the coast range
of mountains, and crosses a shallow arm of the sea that is bridged
with a long trestle. As you pass over the bridge you can look across
the harbor through the gaps in the steep mountains straight out to
sea, or rather into the Gulf of California. Again you are treated to
long vistas of the beautiful mountain-locked harbor as the train winds
around the steep peaks and you approach the old seaport. Before going
to this port, the principal one on the Gulf of California, I made up my
mind there would be comparatively little to say regarding it, as it is
not only the terminus of a railway, but is also located on one or two
lines of steamship travel, and would therefore be almost as well known
as some California resorts or other famous places of the Pacific coast.
It proved, on the contrary, to be seldom or never visited by tourists.
I could find nothing about it in my numerous guidebooks and volumes
devoted to Mexico, but nevertheless discovered a great deal of interest
in this typical old town that was both novel and attractive. When the
Sonora railway first reached here a number of years ago everything
was ready to be "boomed." A hotel to cost a quarter of a million was
started on a beautiful knoll overlooking the picturesque harbor, but
after about one-tenth that amount had been put into the foundation and
carriage way leading up the hill it was given up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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