In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
The patio or interior plaza of the hotel was, upon our arrival, being
used as a cockpit, and one or two hundred people were jammed therein.
Beside the Mexicans, there was one immense, brawny Chinaman. In the
middle of the pit lay two dead cocks; one belonged to the Chinaman,
and the other to some member of the Mexican aristocracy of the town.
An adverse decision had just been given regarding the victory of the
Chinaman's cock, and he was in the act of rolling up his sleeves to
pitch into the crowd and vindicate the prowess of his fowl; fortunately
our timely arrival prevented any further strife by diverting attention
to us, while the host was dragged from the midst of the fray to hunt up
a key to unlock one of the narrow pens--called rooms--that overlooked
the mule corral. Here, on a dirty brick floor, my bedding was spread,
and I slept to a chorus of squealing mules, which came in through the
grated, wooden-shuttered window. And right here I may say that I know
of no better opening for Americans of small means than starting and
keeping hotels in Mexican towns, where decent accommodations of the
kind are wanting, and where a great many Americans, as well as English
and other foreigners, pass through. I could mention fifty such towns
beside the example given. In the town referred to we were crowded, four
and six together, into those small pens--all travelers passing backward
and forward on business connected with mining interests or similar
industries. It seemed to be the universal custom of this portion of the
country to get up at three o'clock to take the diligence, no matter
how long or short the drive was to be. We were going only forty miles
farther the next day to Carichic; the diligence returned nearly eighty
miles to Chihuahua, and another stage line branched off for Guerrero,
to the northwest; but it appeared necessary that passengers should rise
at the same hour in order that all the coaches might get away at the
same time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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