In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
Although our journey began at four o'clock in the morning it was two
or three o'clock in the afternoon before we reached the welcome shelter
of the next station, and it seemed to me from beginning to end one
uninterrupted climb. This station on the Teboreachic was an exception
to the rest on the trail regarding distance, for it is only eighteen
miles from the Potrero, although eighteen miles of incessant uphill
work. While the trail is by no means as steep or dangerous as that
leading into the Urique barranca, it is fully as long a climb to reach
the top or cumbra, and one does not welcome a retreat to the somber
pines with half the enthusiasm inspired by a descent into the tropical
foliage of the deep barrancas. I have already described so many ascents
and descents, that carried us from one kind of climate to another, that
I hardly think it necessary to repeat it in this instance. One feature
of the ascent, however, exceptionally pleasant, was the ease with which
one could get off one's tired mule and not only earn its gratitude, if
a mule may be said to possess that virtue, but also stretch one's weary
limbs by climbing over a comparatively good trail.
As soon as we were well up in the mountains we found the region
extremely well watered, beautiful streams flowing through every little
glen or valley, many of them filled with small trout. This Batopilas
trail differed from the other in that some attempt at grade had been
made. It did not adopt the erratic Indian method of making for the top
of every tall peak and then climbing down on the other side, only to
repeat the performance until the rider became almost seasick from the
undulations. Since Batopilas came into the hands of Americans there
has been a constant effort on their part to look for better grades
and secure a simpler method of ingress and egress from their mountain
mines, and they are continually broadening and improving the path.
Still, at the best, they can never make anything but a narrow mountain
trail in that country of crag and cañon. The day will come when
railways are built through that rich region, but until then the patient
mule will be the only means of transportation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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