In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
We rode home through the silent streets of Kermanshah, the only light
being our farnooses, or cylindrical lamps, made of copper and calico,
something in the fashion of a Chinese lantern; and the full moon.
We met no one in the streets, which were deserted save by the dogs, and
the whole town seemed sunk in sleep. The Persian is an early bird,
going to bed at nine, and rising at four or half-past four. It is very
difficult to break oneself of this habit of early rising on returning to
Europe. One is looked on as very eccentric on getting up at half-past
four, and is hunted from room to room by the housemaids. Certainly
the early morning is the best part of the day all over the world, but
we Europeans in our wisdom have altered it. “Nous avons changé tout
cela”—and we prefer living by gaslight, electricity, etc.
The next morning the Serrum-u-dowlet came over to take our photographs,
and was very friendly; he took them really well, and is a clever fellow.
We went for a ride, and had the unwonted luxury of a two hours’ canter
over good turf. I never had this anywhere else in Persia but once. While
near the river we saw plenty of duck, and Pierson told me that they are
always to be had in the Kermanshah river.
In Kermanshah I found that the grassy plain round the town had many
attractions. Some two miles’ canter on it brought me to a swamp where
there were always snipe, except in the hot weather, an occasional duck,
and even at times wild geese. A ludicrous incident happened to me one
day in regard to the latter. As I was cantering up to the swamp with
my groom, I saw on the other side of a herd of cattle a flock of geese
grazing. To dismount and take my gun from him was the work of an instant,
and I quickly inserted a cartridge charged with No. 4, and a wire ditto,
for my left barrel. I walked stealthily among the cattle towards the
flock of geese, but the game took no notice of me, and allowed me to get
within thirty yards; then it came across me, how if these were _tame_
geese, what a fire of chaff I should get from Pierson. I did not think of
shouting, as of course I should have done, which would have settled the
question, but I retreated stealthily to where my groom was standing with
the horses. I saw that he was full of excitement, and felt that I had
made a fool of myself. “Shikar?” (“Are they wild ones?”) said I. “Belli,
belli, sahib!” (“Yes, yes, sir!”)
Back I went, but alas! only to be too well convinced that they _were_
wild ones, for the whole flock sailed away ere I could get within a
hundred and fifty yards. I have often shot geese—that is, a goose at a
time—but I never had such another chance. The birds really behaved just
as tame ones would; I can only suppose that my being among the grazing
cows I was looked upon as harmless. I did not relate that afternoon’s
adventure to Pierson for some time after.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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