In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Some few of these priests are well educated, and have made the most
of the advantages of their stay in India—notably the vicar, Kashish
(priest) Mardyros. He is an enlightened man, and honest, but he can never
become bishop, for the bishop must be a monk, and is always sent from
Etchmiadzin.
The present Arachnoort speaks only ancient Armenian, Constantinople
Turkish, and a little Persian, and the power for good or evil is mostly
in the hands of the little bishop and vicar. A priest may _marry_ before
he receives priest’s orders, but if his wife dies he cannot re-marry, and
the widowed priest often becomes a monk. This rule leads to a good deal
of immorality, some of the priests being of very bad repute.
Another cause of crime in Julfa is the existence of a barely-concealed
traffic in liquor with the Mussulmans of the town. Certain wine-sellers
are tolerated by the venal authorities; these men allow the Persians
to frequent their houses at all hours of the day or night, selling to
them dreadful mixtures of sour wine and arrack. A Persian is never a
tippler—he drinks till he is mad drunk, or till overcome by sleep. As a
rule the Armenian receives him as a guest, and he deposits his weapons
with his host for their mutual safety. He then hands over his money, and
drinks it out. Of course scenes of violence ensue: stabbing is common. A
fatal case again occurred during my last stay in Julfa. I have been twice
myself threatened in the street by men carrying naked knives; on the
second occasion I thrashed the man severely, and took away his knife.
Any appeal to the authorities would be useless. They reply, “He went to
Julfa to get drunk; what can you expect?”
A few months after my arrival I removed to comfortable quarters in the
Shireh-Khaneh, or wine-sellers’ street. Unfortunately mine was the first
house; at all hours of the day and night violent knocks would be given
at my door by intending arrack-buyers. I could only reluctantly, and as
a last resource, administer a good beating to the knockers. This, after
a time, had the desired effect. In my street, too, a sort of Alsatia or
Tiger Bay was established; all the houses were inhabited by wine-sellers
save my own, and down this street the inebriates from the town, and their
Armenian friends, were in the habit of swaggering, often with drawn
swords (kammer). On meeting these men I always used to thrash them, and
gradually this nuisance too was abated, and when they got drunk, they got
drunk on, and not off, the premises of the wine-sellers. All the Julfa
houses are made with small low doorways, and massive doors are provided,
of great thickness. In many of the wine-sellers’ houses a beam is kept,
which leans against the door, the end going into the ground; the door is
then safe against the attacks of those without.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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