In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Almost as soon as I arrived in Julfa I received a visit from the prince’s
hakim-bashi, Mirza Abdul Wahab. This gentleman, a native of Kashan,
had received his medical education in Paris, and was an M.D. of its
University. He described his life in Ispahan as dull in the extreme, that
he was never off duty save when the Prince-Governor was asleep, and that
his anxieties on account of the vagaries of his charge were great. The
Mirza had spent seven years in France, and had married there; he had also
two native wives (his French wife afterwards came to Teheran, but soon
returned to France). He complained of the many hours he had to stand,
etiquette forbidding any other attitude in the prince’s presence. He told
me that he had to read poetry to his Royal Highness for many hours each
day.
“Not that I mind reading poetry,” said he, “but no one listens, which is
provoking in the extreme.”
I was very glad to have an acquaintance with whom I could converse, for
of course the hakim-bashi spoke French fluently. The appointment as
physician to the eldest son of the king and Governor of Ispahan is a high
employ, and the doctor hoped it would lead to better things; but he did
not like the being away from the capital. He became shortly a Khan.
He invited me to call on the prince, and told me that his Royal Highness
would receive me at half-past eight A.M. the next day, or, as he phrased
it, two hours after sunrise. I promised to be punctual, and duly
presented myself at the appointed hour.
I passed through a garden crowded with soldiers, servants, persons having
petitions to make, and the usual hangers-on of a great man and his train.
In a crowded outer room sat the Minister (or real Governor), Mahommed
Ali Khan, under whose tutelage the Zil-es-Sultan is. The prince himself,
being a mere youth, has no real power, and everything is done by Mahommed
Ali Khan. The hakim-bashi now met me, and conducted me past a sentry into
the private apartment of the prince.
I took off my goloshes at the door, keeping my hat on, and making a
salute. The doctor introduced me in a few words, and the prince, a
good-looking youth of about eighteen years, motioned me smilingly to a
chair which had been placed for me opposite him. I asked after his health
in French, but he insisted on my talking in Persian, and was much amused
at the hash I made of it. He was a fine, good-humoured youth, full of
spirits.
After the first few minutes he threw off all his air of dignity and
talked and laughed merrily, asking many questions as to the manners
of Europeans, the Queen, climate of England, etc. He then gave me his
likeness, and told me that he photographed himself, which was the case.
I was regaled with tea, and took my leave, breakfasting in the town with
the hakim-bashi at his residence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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