In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
These nammad, or felts, are universally used as great-coats by the
peasantry, and are very good indeed as an outer covering, being seamless.
They are often made with bag-like sleeves with a slit at the wrists, thus
forming a glove, and when the peasant wants to use his hands, they are
thrust through the slit and the glove portion turned back over the wrist.
They are all in one piece.
The gelim, or tent carpets, are very suitable for travelling or rough
work, and being thin are easily dried. They wash well, and have no pile.
There is yet another variety of carpet called jejim: this is very thin
and more like a plaid in consistency; it is used by horsemen, who wrap
their spare clothing in it and use it as a bed and carpet too.
For about fifty pounds I was able to get enough carpets for all my
living rooms, and, owing to the steady rise in the price of carpets,
on my departure in nine years’ time on leave, I got as much as I gave
for them. Exactly the same as with horses after the famine, the demand
being greater than the supply on account of exportation, prices rose
considerably.
A good deal of illness occurring just at this time among the staff, I
had my attention directed to the water, which, being mostly from surface
wells, was much contaminated. I therefore engaged a water-carrier from
the town, purchased a skin and bucket for him, and the staff were
supplied with a skinful twice a day, for cooking and drinking purposes,
from the monastery well—a deep and good one.
The Persians are particular what water they drink, and invariably employ
a sakka, or water-carrier; but the Armenians generally have a cesspool
just outside their house door, and in its immediate proximity the well is
dug, often only ten feet deep. The result is obvious.
Our superintendent being a married man, collars which I had cast off for
the last year, principally because I could not get them washed, had to be
worn; and I had to send them to Teheran by post to get them washed, for
in Ispahan the art of ironing was unknown; and the American term for a
shirt, “boiled rag,” was literally appropriate.
I made the acquaintance of three brothers who were Syuds, or holy men,
but who had the reputation of being freethinkers; these men called on
me and insisted on my breakfasting with them in the town: they were
wealthy landed proprietors and merchants. I found their house beautifully
furnished and their hospitality was great; they discoursed much on the
subject of religion, and were very eloquent on the injustices perpetrated
in Persia. They were nearly related to the Imām-i-Juma, or high priest,
a very great personage indeed, who ruled the town of Ispahan by his
personal influence. It was said that any one who incurred his displeasure
always, somehow or other, lost his life.
Under the shadow of such a relation, the Syuds Hassan and Houssein and
their brother openly held their very liberal opinions. They were, in
fact, sectaries of the Baab.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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