In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Julfa cathedral—The campanile—The monk—Gez—Kishmish
wine—The bishop—The church—Its decorations—The day of
judgment—The cemetery—Establishment of the Armenian captives
in Julfa—Lost arts—Armenian artificers—Graves—Story of
Rodolphe—Coffee-house—Tombstone bridges—Nunnery—Schools—Medical
missionary—Church Missionary establishment—The Lazarist Fathers.
The sights of Julfa are very few—the cathedral, or Egglesiah Wang, and
the schools of the Church Missionary Society, the cemetery, and the
nunnery, being the only objects of interest.
The Egglesiah Wang, or “big church,” is a part of the monastery of Julfa.
At the entrance, which is by a stuccoed doorway surmounted by a Latin
cross in a mud wall, is a sort of stone drinking trough, something like
our old English fonts; it is embedded in the wall. The door is of great
thickness, so that in disturbed times the monks would be safe against
attacks of Mussulmans; and for the same reason the entrance is narrow
and winding. On emerging from this short passage, one comes to the
outer court, in one corner of which are the graves of a few Europeans
who have either died in Julfa or been brought here for burial. These
are noted in Sir F. Goldsmid’s ‘Telegraph and Travel,’ and some of the
Latin inscriptions are translated into English verse by him. A large
campanile of imposing appearance and peculiar (qy. Russian) style, stands
in the centre; it is new and well made, and consists of a brick tower
standing on stone columns, and containing three bells. The rest of the
courtyard is occupied by logs of wood from the monastery garden brought
here to season previous to being sold to the Julfa carpenters. Armenians
are very unromantic. The monastery church has a door opening into this
courtyard, but entrance is usually effected through a passage, in which
are the tombs of former bishops; these are mostly mere blocks of stone
let into the ground, but the two last bishops have more ambitious mural
monuments; the last, Thaddeus, having a black marble tablet, probably cut
in India, with an inscription (_in English_), setting forth his virtues;
over all is his photograph. There is an inner entrance in this passage
of railings, and the walls have some small trap-doors through which the
monks in stricter days used to confess the laity—at least the females.
A few miserable daubs on plaster in this passage represent Saint Michael
weighing good and evil spirits, etc. To the right is a low door,
which leads to the church; at the extremity of the passage is a large
courtyard, which contains the apartments occupied by the Arachnoort and
the little bishop Christopher.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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