In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
There is no pretension to magnificence in these. The rooms of Christopher
are small, and comfortable in a humble manner; a few religious engravings
and paintings of saints that Wardour Street would not look at, hang on
the walls; it is carpeted with cheap rugs, and a mattress and a couple
of cushions form the furniture; in the corner is the tall, silver-headed
ebon staff of the little bishop; in a recess stand his conical hat and
hood. A room quite without ornament forms his bedroom, and his property,
a few years ago considerable, he has made over to the Church.
The little bishop is a gouty man, and does not indulge, though there
are legends that in his youth his potations were pottle deep; he does
not even smoke, but he snuffs—a thing that most of the old people in
Julfa do. A jovial old man in a skull-cap and flowing black robes, he
insists on regaling one with gez; a sort of sweetmeat, prepared from
the gezanjebine, a mawkish exudation from a plant found in the desert
near here, and akin to manna; it is mixed with sugar and made up into
round cakes with almonds or pistachios. It is impossible to break these
cakes with the finger; they will bend freely, but on striking them with
a hammer or another cake, they fracture at once. Ispahan is celebrated
through Persia for this sweetmeat, and large quantities are sent away
in every direction. In Julfa and Ispahan the gez is always offered on
the arrival of a guest, and urgently pressed on one; it is considered
impolite to refuse. The flavour is merely sickly sweet, and it sticks
to the jaws like butter-scotch; it is white in colour, and very cloying.
The monk, too, always has a glass of good old Kishmish wine for his
friends. The Kishmish grape is the smallest in Persia; it is a bright
yellow colour, and very sweet; it is, when dried, what we call the
Sultana raisin. The wine is a golden yellow, delicious when quite new,
but terribly heady. It is a great favourite with the Armenians, as it is
quickly intoxicating. As a rule it will not keep well, but when it does
is not to be despised. A glass of arrack is offered as an alternative,
and this is more suited to the native taste; it is, as a rule, what is
called in India “fixed bayonets.”
The monk is a laughing philosopher, and generally has some store of local
yarns; in fact, he is a sort of “vieulx Parchemins,” and his tales would
have astonished and delighted the author of the ‘Contes drolatiques.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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