In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
At five the same afternoon I mounted, having a bottle of claret, the only
thing I could take, a tin of soup and some tea with me, also a brandy
flask. I knew my only chance was to keep on. As I came to each stage I
found the time Sir A. Kemball and Colonel S⸺ had preceded me was greater
and greater, _but they slept_—I did not—I kept on, with the feeling that,
as Giles Hoggett says, “it’s dogged as does it.” I rode all night and got
to Kasvin, twenty-five farsakhs (eighty-eight miles), in fourteen hours.
Here I had a difficulty in getting horses. The liberal presents given by
Colonel S⸺ and his party had roused the extortionate feelings of the
holy man in charge of the post-house (he was a Syud and a noted rascal).
At first he would not give me horses at all, telling me there were none,
and to go and rest, as I was ill; but I was determined. I submitted to
the swindle of paying five kerans for a so-called permit for horses; this
I carefully kept, promising myself to administer a thrashing should I
ever return.
This I had the satisfaction of doing, when in robust health, some five
months afterwards. And I duly thonged the Syud, to his astonishment and
disgust, for I was so changed he did not recognise me. He then of course
called me “aga” (master) and held my stirrup when I mounted.
After a delay of about four hours I got away from Kasvin, and I was
now gaining on the party in front; but I was doubly unfortunate: the
Colonel’s large party took seven horses, and more if they could get
them, and I was preceded by the courier, who, a hale man, had started
two hours in front of me. Thus the horses I got were doubly tired, but I
kept on with the obstinacy of a sick man, though at times I think I was
half delirious. I could eat nothing, and the only thing that had passed
my lips since leaving Kashan, where I took soup, was a little claret; an
attempt to breakfast in Teheran had made me very ill indeed. I arrived at
a post-house, got two new horses, gave a present to my former guide, and
on I went. I was too ill to talk, and my disinclination to speak caused
an amusing incident at one place. The guide, thinking me a “new chum” who
did not understand the language, amused himself the greater part of the
stage by calling me “rascal,” “dog,” “son of a burnt father,” etc. This
same fellow stole my matches and emptied my claret-bottle. I could have
wept, but was too ill to thrash him or even remonstrate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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