In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
I kept on, never stopping more than the time to saddle. Night came on,
and on getting to Rustumabad I was delighted to find the courier asleep,
giving his two tired horses a rest. I took two others, also tired ones,
and on I went, leaving him peacefully slumbering. We were now in dense
forest—it was pitch dark; the horses previously tired by the rapid
riding of Colonel S⸺’s party, and the return journey from the long and
bad stage of six farsakhs, they having gone before my getting them about
forty miles. When I got some ten miles into the forest, the poor beasts
refused to move. The guide was, or pretended to be, in great terror
of wild beasts, repeating “Jūniver, jūniver!” (“Wild animals!”) to me
continually. Of the presence of these there was no mistake, from the
continued noises and roarings, though we saw none. There was nothing for
it but to dismount. My matches being stolen, I tore out some cotton wool
from my quilt, mixed it with a little powder from a broken cartridge,
and fired my revolver through it. We soon had an enormous fire. _How_
I enjoyed it and the _rest_! The damp of the swamps—it is as damp here
as it is dry in the middle and south of Persia—had seemed to enter my
bones; and how I had longed for rest. Now I got a little for the first
time, lying on my quilt, my head on my saddle-bags, before an immense
fire, which the guide fed with broken trunks and boughs. I enjoyed a
sensation of delightful rest I have never felt before or since. I even
managed to eat a little soup, and the guide made tea in the tin. How I
revelled in it, for I knew I _must catch_ the Colonel by breakfast-time,
before he could leave Resht, and consequently not lose the last steamer.
I reluctantly left the fire as soon as the horses could move, and we
plodded on in the dark. We got to Koodūm before dawn, and into Resht
to M. M⸺’s house by nine, where I found the Colonel and his party at
breakfast.
Thirty-one farsakhs, over long stages and bad roads, in twenty-two hours
(one hundred and eight miles), or one hundred and ninety-six miles from
Teheran in forty-one hours, was good travelling on tired horses, and for
a sick man.
Colonel S⸺, who was astounded at seeing me, supposing me four stages
beyond Kashan, must, I think, have looked upon me as an impostor. He was
very cold indeed.
I tried to eat some breakfast, but failed, and left on a bad horse to
cross the swamp with the rest of the party for Peri-bazaar. It was some
miles through a nasty swampy road, the fine chaussée there now is, not
then existing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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